Thanks for the frame of reference! Might be because I live in a very flat place. (Or maybe settings which are 40a/-40a). Iām wondering if it will get better once I get a new tube. One of mine only holds air for like 20 minutes of riding. It doesnāt really seem to be an issue, I donāt hear or feel a difference when it is flat from when I start.
@RyEnd
Iām mostly curious about how much this deflated tube is affecting the ride, because its hard to tell while riding. Might be affecting my ESC temp though for all I know. I was in the 160s Fahrenheit.
Not specifically regarding that individual ā but really not hearing about failures is a very, very, very poor indication that things arenāt failing.
Some other things that can cause that are: lack of hard use, simply not mentioning it, being embarrassed, blaming self, mentioning it in other places, or simply not enough time to write up about things that failed.
Just today I had a wheel bearing fail, and I had no plans to do a write up about it.
Mario was set @ 80% power to reduce his overall top speed at the hill.
Amp will spike 180a from dead stop start-up hard accel uphill on Take off. It quickly settles to 90-120a for the rest of the acceleration to get to top speed depending on rider weight, hill and size of balls.
Reliability is everything when your going 50+ mph.
That video was awesome! You can see I take off right next to Mario on the line but once I hit 32 mph, I maxed out my top speed and everyone just overtakes like bullets flying by!
Gots make some higher kv hummie hubs. At least 40 mph. Hard to ever compete though when guys like Mario do the mid 50āsā¦
Whatās the reason for going higher voltage? I know for the same power output, higher voltage means less current (and in theory less heat) but thatās not the only reason/pro is it?
I ask because Iām also building an electric bike (I know, this isnāt the right forum but I like yāall better ) but it seems like most people go higher than 12S?
An ESCās power dissipation limit is typically measured in flow/current. A motorās power/wattage intake is flow/current multiplied by pressure/voltage.
If you raise the voltage, you can increase the amount of power sent to the motor without increasing the load on the ESC and without increasing losses in wires, et cetera.
However, at a point you reach the voltage limits of the ESC. I only run mine at 70% (aka 10S on a FOCBOX et cetera) for reliability reasons, but most folks run them at 84% (12S on FOCBOX et cetera).
The higher voltage also increases the top speed, but you could simply adjust the motor Kv accordingly to cancel out that phenomenon while designing the vehicle.
Is this referring to power as power or power as heat?
Ah so the goal is to keep current the same throughout all voltages to increase output without increasing losses?
Yeah there is a higher top speed thatās true but I would assume more current is require to reach the higher top speed or is that more or less dependent on a case to case basis
Well, technically the limit is by temperature, and current is what causes the temperature increase. Voltage does not cause an elevated ESC temperature.
Okay I must be going about this the wrong way then because after contacting my local UPS store and then getting connected to their UPS Hazmat hotline the hazmat employee told me that if the battery is over 300WHr which the Boosted Revās is 370 he told me I would need to have a dangerous goods contract with UPS because it is a class 9 level battery or something. Proceeding to tell me I would need to take some online hazmat training, that is not offered through them, that would then permit me to file this contract with UPS. The training would teach me what UN number to put on the battery. Also, in order to ship the battery it would need to go ground but be picked up from the address in which the person that took the training lives (or works I assume). So I would need the person that is selling me the battery to do this or else they could not ship to me. Idk if this guy was wrong or what but it seems like too much red tape for me to convince my seller to cut through for this one sale. If anyone knows that this guy is wrong please let me know. Lol
Iām practicing my XT-60 soldering. It looks like shit but when I tug to see if the wire will come out, I find that it is totally stuck to the connector, which seems promising. Can this still be a cold solder despite being stuck to the metal part of the connector?
Nothing works better than a well lubed gear drive. I started by using lithium then high Tack chain lube.
It all slings off quickly and attracks debris. Today we donāt lube.
Eventually will make a wet case for grease containment. Any gear system would run better in it.
We wore out our first pinion last year on the V2. It was rode and raced on dirt, gravel, sand and street.
I switched to mod 1.5 May 2018. It was origional and wore out testing the 155 metro tire Nov 2019.
Spurs still look great. Hardened steel on hardened steel is as strong as it gets.
Youāll get horrible efficiency though
) but it seems like most people go higher than 12S?
