You guys think plastic wrap is conductive? 
I put the plastic wrap between my silicone packed battery so the silicone can form to the shape of the deck without becoming stuck to it… And I don’t feel like taking the enclosure off again O.o
I can easily rip off the extra pieces hanging off the sides… But you guys know I’m lazy 
Check with your multimeter, but i don’t think it is ^^
All my items are still stuck in my school dorm room 
(since March 13th)
No clue when I’ll be able to get them back
how you gonna separate the plastic wrap from the silicone though?
did ya spritz it with mineral oil?
Na im hoping itll peel right off like it did with JBweld.
If it doesnt I guess I can just cut it off and do another pass with it 
@xsynatic on flipsky 4.12 vescs, do you think 25A Max make them go really hot?
I got some hills in my area I have to pass before having some long straight streets. It scares me that they have no passive cooling, and are inside this plastic heat shrink. I know it’s good in order to protect it from any shorts, but the thermals have to a nightmare.
Do you think 25A will be an issue temp. wise?
It could be… Your vescs will be inside an enclosure without proper cooling. Hills raise the temp pretty fast.
When i put my 4.12 inside an enclosure i easily got it to 60c+ (on a single motor street setup)
I managed to get my dual 4.12 vescs to 77c+ on my mtb in seconds while enclosed. But ever since i made a vent for the air to come i only hit 45c+ on a rare occasion.
Keep in mind that i run my 4.12’s at 45A battery with 70A Motor in foc.
Sooner or later it might, depending on ambient temp and how hard you are stressing them. They are manageable for the most part.
EDIT : for clarification. I got my vescs to 77c+ as a fat guy on a mtb in the woods, semi uphill.
bro I was using mine in 35 Celsius in Barcelona on an all terrain board. you are overthinking this. just build the board and enjoy it. deal with this other stuff as and when it happens.
Yes I am really overthinking the build 
Can’t wait until my parts arrive haha 
One of my spare FocBoxss has a loose micro USB connector that’s on it’s last legs, still works with a tape wrapped alligator clip holding it for now.
Since it is still reading/writing data, can I just use a little reflow magic to re-seat the port? or should I replace it, and if so, anybody have a part # for the old FocBox micro USB port?
Thanks. I searched but I only found evidence it’s happened not the actual part needed
I’m not aware that slop it the pivot cup is normal…
also, got a song name?
Most micro usb ports have the data connection and 1 support bracket that you solder on each side. If it still transmits data you need to find a way to fix the support brackets
I thiiink it was peyote? Or silk from elijah blond? Try both, they’re great
peyote hippie sabotage.
shazam helped.
Awesome thanks a lot man. I’ll give that a shot
Bought this charger off a member on the forum and was planning to solder this to my desired connector (5.5x2.5) but unsure if it is possible… the full cooper piece in the picture was wrapped around the white wire in the middle. I separated them. Is this possible to resolver to the new connector?
Yup. You’ll see that most laptop chargers use this type of wiring too. Just make sure you detect and solder the right poles in the dc jack
How do you detect that
What’s the thickness of MBS bearings?
Basically looking for the depth of the bearing seat and the height of the spacer that goes in between the bearings.
