hobbyking is good for stuff like that.
also
https://www.servocity.com/electronics/wiring/leads/servo-leads
possibly ebay then?
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Anyone using the BKB Gps module in the US? How is the coverage?
GPS coverage is the same anywhere in the world - Thatâs the advantage of satellites. As long as the module can pick up the signal for at least three satellites at any given time (there are always at least four above the horizon at any given place and time) itâll work. More satellites means better accuracy.
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Can you use the 5V pin of an arduino as an input?
I thought itâs output only.
How do you power an arduino with 5V (without USB) ?
Got this question because of this diagram
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There should be a Vin (voltage in) pin near the 5v pin that will take a range of voltages inâŚ
While the 5v pin technically works as an input, low-quality supply voltage can burn up the regulators on the board, making it and you into very unhappy campers.
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Exactly! I donât see why SolidGeek would make this dubious decision⌠But itâs true that VIN only works when you apply 8V-12V
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Any reason to choose this:
Over this:
SolidGeek has the above one in his parts list but he mentioned its bad quality - I just want to make sure I can use every Nrf24 module and treat it the same. Does the antenna help with the connection?
MindfuckâŚ
Whatâs the differences???
[Though I still donât know if a zigzag pattern or a standard antenna is the better option or if there any differences, I now know whats the difference for some of them. Some have just a different connector, but some have PA and LNA. PA stands for power amplification, idk why itâs used. A low-noise amplifier ( LNA ) is an electronic amplifier that amplifies a very low-power signal without significantly degrading its signal-to-noise ratio]
Edit:
Found gold!!! 
https://www.google.com/amp/s/lastminuteengineers.com/nrf24l01-arduino-wireless-communication/amp/
That would probably be why⌠Necessitates a boost converter if higher voltage isnât available.
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I found two pretty old lipo batteries
3,7V 500mAh.
Both seem to be 0 volt and one feels like a balloonâŚ
Its swallen right?
The other one looks fine from the outside, but shows 0V as well⌠Any hope to revive?
Solder the wires directly on the receiver and ESC, and not use a cable at all. Besides, a cable can come loose.
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@Trampa Is it possible to remove the annodisation on the vertigo trucks? Does it need to be retreated after to prevent rust or can they stay raw?
Can anyone help me desperate to get my board up And running today
Some form of communications, Iâd guess. Something serial most likely, but what protocol/baudrate/etc is anyoneâs guess.
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There are a million-and-one things that could be causing that, and we have no way to magically know which one it is. Especially because I havenât seen any information about what your setup is like.
Could be any of the following, a combination thereof, or none at all:
- too long battery wires
- not enough filter capacitance on the vesc
- shitty vesc
- defective vesc
- damaged vesc
- trying to run too much current through your vesc
- smashing the throttle from a standstill
- the phase of the moon
- the conjugation between Mars and Jupiter.
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Guessing itâs cause I am trying to run to much current through them
They are vesc 6 form trampa
I used to have them set to 45 current and 45a brake current
Then I just updated And set to 49a current And 49a brake current
Using 12s5p 30q
That shouldnât be enough to cause overcurrent faults, especially with vesc6s. IIRC those have been tested to 120A++.
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Donât have long battery wires and I was using the throttle like I usually do
I will see if changing back the settings will help
In fact, I ran a pair of them at 40A battery and +/-80A motor each for a while with no issues whatsoever.
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Aaaaanyway, itâs late as hell here and I gotta get some sleep. Iâd suggest making a thread about your build/issues and see if anyone can help there - this thread moves so fast that oftentimes questions get lost in the shuffle.
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