Why not just have the switch between the battery and the dc-dc converter? They way you have zero power draw when itās off.
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Would love that but racing switches only come in 12-24v max
Would you show us an example of the switch you are talking about?
Sure this is the exact switch Iām gonna use
The cap is spring loaded so when you close the cap it closes the switch.
Iād just try to use it anyway.
Thatāll be fine, itās not gonna be carrying a lot of current or seeing any highly capacitive or inductive loads. Those ratings are if youāre going to be pulling 10-20 amps through it, not running lights.
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But its gonna see full load? Wonāt the DC converter pull a load? I know its gonna output 7amps but no clue how much it pulls in amps
What kind of LEDs are you planning to run? What is the maximum number of watts you want to come out of the converter?
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Around 2 meters of WS2812B along with some EL wire
Do you have a link to the exact LED strip? I need to know how much power it can take per foot, and that varies from strip to strip. Also the EL wire should say on the inverter.
Sorry was calculating ā¦43w per meter (.3w per led) so 86w. Link:
the el wire I have no idea itās not specified. Here the link to it
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B013FZHD7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jAtmDbW0TAKG0
So worst case conditions: full power on every LED, drawing 86 watts, with an 80% efficiency of the converter, running from a dead (30v) battery, itād pull about 3.4 amps, which that switch will totally handle.
Worse comes to worst, you can always replace the switch with a higher rated one later if it fails on you!
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Now I just need to find out how fast turning on the switch will activate everything.
Wait. I just thought of somethingā¦wonāt that make a spark everytime Iāll go to turn it on?
Maybe a little. Depends on how big of a capacitor is on your DC-DC converter. You get big sparks from ESCs because the great big electrolytic caps across the input for noise suppression.
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You canāt charge by just plugging in the charger, but you can charge by plugging in the charger and pressing the BMS power button. I donāt see an issue.
I use DieBieMS in one of my boards.
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Great! Thank you! Was a little confusing and I didnāt want to buy the wrong charger.
Keep in mind thereās still an 0.7v drop from the charge port diode, so if your charger is at 42v, your battery will only charge to 41.3v. You can get around this by getting a charger thatās got adjustment pots inside that you can get in and tweak.
Iām sweet with .7, will be good for battery life.
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Is there a way to wire the battery meter to turn on as Iām charging my board? I hate playing the guessing game, taking the charger out, putting the loopkey in, taking it out and then plugging the charger in again 
Just a QoL change that would be cool