Or should I go with one motor front and one rear mounted?
And just use these from AliExpress? Then I wouldnât need a new pulley for the motor but I would have to mount adjacent because my trucks are only 180mm
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Screenshot_20200416_200323_com.alibaba.aliexpresshd|230x500
the weird thing is that i used that remote last year (before i got my lovely vx1) and i always calibrated it. Remote worked like it should. Now, almost 1 year later it doesnât work. Maybe some vesc tool magic?
clarification : the remote works. But only if i donât calibrate it like i used to.
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I never calibrate, i just grabbed my backup nanox cause I forgot to charge main, just turned it on and went, no ppm setup, no calibration
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Yes, but they are not very good wheels.
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With your battery and motors I think you wonât see a difference between the V4 or V6 neobox; theyâre definitely powerful enough, and Iâve only felt the power loss of V4 hardware on lower KV motors. Check the Neo thread to see when they ship, but IIRC it was at the end of April.
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NOOB QUESTION: so do you run FOC or BLDC which do you prefer. Also does running either one of these affect if you run sensored or sensorless? Whatâs the difference between sensored and sensorless? Iâm assuming motors with sensors can still be ran in sensorless mode? What do you recommend? Thank you guys!
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FOC is known to be more silent than Bldc.
No it doesnât effect that as far as I know.
Sensorless motors stutter at very, very low rpm, so you normally have to push once before you can start your ride motorized. But that push can really be a little one, just so that you roll a tiny bit.
A sensored motor doesnât have that issue. But a technology called HFI has the same effect as a sensor on your motor on a sensorless one. Yes, the sensor of the motors can just be not plugged in or you can configure it in the Bldc software. Iâm going to use sensorless motors. If youâre getting them along with your motor, itâs up to you if you use them. But the implementation of sensorless motors running like sensored ones, makes it obsolete for me zu have an extra cable.
Wait for someone to confirm or improve this answer though, please
Hereâs a great explanation video
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Hi, have anybody tried applying a wrap on a longboard, And then have some clear glass grit on top?
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@sender does great fabric wraps with glass frit. Check out some of his threads and top photos via his profile
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Iâm upgrading to matrix 2s from Chinese trucks. Should I use the angled riser on the matrix 2s? The deck is a mark one b stock. I care more about high speed stability than carving.
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Increase the angle of the truck for more turn from less lean. Do the opposite for the reverse effect. You could end up running one backwards in the rear to decrease angle and none or positive angle in the front for more control.
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Nah just use the deck riser pad. Iâve gotten that setup up to 38mph with no wobz
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Huh, Iâve always thought it was the opposite.
So if Iâm understanding this right, the angle controls how much turn per lean you get and the blocks controll how hard it is to do it?
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I actually asked Joel about this the other day and he said there is no angular difference forward to back, it will only affect ride height a tiny bit as the hanger isnât perfectly centered on the baseplate.
@Posterduck yes thatâs exactly right and a great way to state it
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Anyone see any signs of micro cutoffs in this?
I am near the stage of my build where I will want to start conformal coating things. I have a bottle of 419D on the way, per the recommendations here. How do you apply it? I was thinking disposable foam brushes?
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The good stuff came with a brush built into the cap, so maybe cheap paint brushes as foam might tear?
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Gonna be building a 20s10p 30q. Anyone got an idea what nickel I should use? And does anyone have nickel and fishpaper to spare? Corona has waiting times going crazy
