Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Just the name of the specific setup with 2 grub screws at 90° inside the teeth.
I ended up ordering from nexus as it fit most of the specs, but i’m not sure how well it will transition from htd3M to htd5M… guess i’ll be back on this thread soon

Really there’s no specific name for that type of pulley. So long as it’s the correct diameter to fit the shaft, it should be fine - Most pulleys have at least one setscrew in the middle of the teeth.

If it doesn’t match up with one of the holes, you can grind a flat onto the shaft with a dremel/bench grinder/angle grinder. It doesn’t have to be pretty, just has to make a flat spot for the setscrew to bite on.

Hmm anyone know the truck mounting bolt length and size to bottom mount trucks with a spacer on a hummie deck?

The other big thing about common 18-8 & 18-10 fasteners is that they can’t be hardened like alloy steels can.
Making them much less suited to high-shear applications like motor mounts.

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Yup. If you want high-strength stainless you’re looking at something like A286. You can certainly get them, but they’re expensive: A single M4x12mm A286 socket cap screw is $6.26 on McMaster.

If you’re in the USA, that’s probably a no-go. Especially the big box stores – Home Depot, Lowe’s, Menards – you can totally forget about those. They don’t have metric. Almost at all. They got jack shit. Except GE Silicone 2+. They have that in the paint section. Literally no other part of electric skateboards are stocked in there.

You need to order hardware online. The big box hardware stores are only for people constructing buildings.

If you find a small mom-and-pop store or maybe an Ace or something, they MIGHT have some stuff.

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He might mean “HTD5M synchronous timing belts”

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I am luckey enough to have 3 ace hardware stores within 10 miles of me. I have a favorite one because it has a popcorn machine. Last time I walked in they said “what oddball screw can I help you find this time”
I think I might be known as “the screw guy”.

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This is the exact reason why I love living near an industrial fastener supplier :stuck_out_tongue:

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Anyone have a picture of what a 260-270mm hanger looks like on a board ?

Well, yeah. I was looking for 3m and the one with no “empty” barrels at the end seems to be named “af” version, but they’re so much unobtanium i went for the 5m and re-geared to fit a round number belt. Almost bought a few pulleys with bearings in them too, not knowing they’re free moving

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it will look differently depending on the width of the deck

When i have a battery pack that can let’s say output 80A.
Should the motor and esc both be able to handle max 80A?
Also should the BMS have the same max amperage as the battery pack?

Most people prefer using their BMSes only for charging, so that your ESC never gets disconnected from the battery by accident. So no, your BMS does not need to handle 80A.

And no, you don’t need to have every component rated to the same spec. For example, on my brother’s board, the battery is capable of 80A, but I only have 1 ESC, which I set to 60A, and run the motor at 60A as well, because he doesn’t need more.

You can imagine it as the motor is pulling the current from the battery pack. It will only pull as much as it needs. Therefore your battery must be able to provide enough or your ESC will impose a current cutoff meaning you may lose power. However, 80A should be enough depending on your build. If you get a 60A VESC for example, you can set the current limit to 60A to avoid damaging the battery pack and vesc. With a 120a Vesc, you’d set the current draw limit to 75A, a bit under the limit of the battery to protect it.

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The battery can handle short current spikes, if the battery is rated for 80A, then 80A is fine.

but if you don’t use a bms when you use the board can’t you overdischarge your battery?

if the motor can do max 60A and your esc and battery can do more, you should set a current limit at 60A right? or a bit less

Nah VESCS have a voltage cutoff you can set.

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Yeah, at, or a bit less. Tiral and error really, it depends if your esc will get hot or your motors. If they do then can crank it back a few amps

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