Thank you that makes sense. Well good thing I have literally every set of @RipTideSports bushings available for just this reason. Should be a fun experiment. Also
Now have adjustable BPs so should help with the fine tuning to get it right.
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Iâve found some interesting bushing combos that work well. The weirdest on was using a tall bushing road side on an Evo, I was getting slow returns from hard leans and this resolved the issue. Experiment, it helps.
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with that budget, i wouldnât choose an evolve 
look at trampa or go DIY. if you have that bit extra go get a Kaly or Lacroix 
Itâs hard to buy a prebuilt that suits a heavy weight and that isnât going to fail⌠evolve boards are not good for heavy weight either, their cells are not good enough.
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top mounted 
apart from extra heatsinks or a fan, are there any mods i missed? do some people not use the original case and use something more efficient?
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I cool my 4.12âs with air.
I printed that âAir catcherâ and mounted it through the lid. Additionally i added a mesh to keep most stuff outside. I donât know whenâs the last time i hit 50/60c on my vescs. They average at about 20-35c
If it would start to rain or i ride when its wet i unscrew the air catcher and mount the sealing plate. (it has silicone on the bottom and a D-shaped seal all around that seals the screw holes
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TIL these rolls of LEDs (uv/blacklight) should not just be left plugged in for extended periods or the spool itâs on will melt and end up looking like whatâs on the top (black mangled spool). Also the heat from the coil of LEDs yellows the coating⌠So Iâll try to remember not to do that again.
So yah remember to unspool your LEDs or donât leave the whole thing plugged in as a coil itâs a fire hazard.
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it seems to me that many of the diyâers here started with evolve boards. i have evolve to thank for pushing them into diy because of the bits and pieces under the hood that needed to eventually be replaced or upgraded. that said it doesnât seem like the best value, when the ownboard knockoffs offer much the same for much less moolah. and if you can stretch your budget to carbon gtr territory, you can afford a hoyt skateboard which will likely last you many more years of service.
i always cringe when people seek recommendations for prebuilts and folks suggest they start with diy. but⌠i can see the logic now, when you can buy both a meepo 3 and a buildkitboards kit for $1,200 and have cash left over in case you fall into the diy rabbit hole
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First, would a battery holder with clips like these be appropriate? Theyâre so stiff i need a screwdriver to pry the batteries out, theyâre solid in there. Also, itâs going to be with the 30q batteries in 3p , nothing too crazy.
Secondly, what glues abs really well?
My go-to is to solvent weld it using Acetone slurry. Basically melt some ABS shavings in acetone to make goop, then use that as glue. Or you could just buy some ABS pipe cement from the hardware store.
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Hi standard 8mm axels what size nutts is needed?
Is a standard EU size M8 nytt the right type or is the threads a bit different?
Happy riding
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Theyâre usually 5/16"-24.
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I thought about strong velcro for my build! Easily manageable! Sticks to my deck just fine. But I have to wait until my abs enclosure arrives to see how well the velcro tape side sticks to the enclosure.
Tnx but I hade to translate that to metric. 
Translate to M8x 1.25
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Metric and inch fasteners donât match exactly, you will likely have problems unless you can get your hands on some freedumb unit nuts.
So simplest ting is to get them from a skate shop?
Anyone here has a good source for learning UART communication with arduino for getting started? 
Especially for VESCs of course
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That, or any hardware supplier that will ship to you for a reasonable rate. 5/16"-24 is a pretty common inch fastener size.
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Before I re do it, the Bluetooth module on this bms works with out a on/off latch/switch on the bms?
You didnât specifically say dual or single drive, so I will assume single because you wrote âthe motorâ
With 97mm wheels 15/36 is okay but Iâd consider going 16/40 (or 17/40) that way itâs an easy upgrade path if you want to increase wheel size later you can reuse the wheel pulleys and only buy a 15T motor pulley for 15/40. Also 16/40 has more teeth in mesh than 15/36.
âmotor ampsâ and âbattery ampsâ are different things. You can definitely have your settings for 120A motor max and 50A battery max. The motor max will be noticed at lower speeds and at higher speeds the battery max will take over.
For a single drive, go as big as possible. 6374 will work but but a 6380 or a 6396 will be better IF it has a bigger stator and the extra space isnât just sensors and/or bearings.
For dual drive, 6355 is more than adequate. Even 5065 is fine. 5055 is acceptable but not recommended.
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