Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

I think 3240W is enough power :slight_smile:
Since both 160KV and 220KV are the same price I can pick between them. The sad thing is, with my parts I’ld get 40kmh with the 160KV
And just too much with the 220KV😂

So I would have to change the gear ratio right?
Currently is the standard 2.4/1
With the single motor I should get around 45kmh which I think is a good sweetspot for me :slight_smile:

Dumb question:
Both the motors having the same price - isn’t the more powerful better in any category?

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not sure. dont get too bogged down with watts. seems like they just randomly pick a number

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safety last, especially with one motor brakes …

:man_shrugging:

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Alright.
This would be 125 Euros for the motors (I’ld pcik the 190kv ones because they give me a good top speed and (maybe) more watts?). For the VESC I don’t know if a 4.2 or a 6, but they’re 125€/185€. And then I need another motor mount kit for 35€ from dickyho.
That means 285€/345€ for these parts compared to 40€ Motor, 50€ VESC - > 90€

Is it really worth that?

(Edit:) My battery has 60A max output so the 100A Dual Vesc gets bottlenecked hard by this. Both motors would get 1000W max… So i would need a bigger battery than 10S3P.

And that makes it pretty much impossible for me to have a dual motor system :confused:

Agree with you strongly!

lol welcome to our world. V6 is better designed than V4, less likely to break. i think worth it

it doesn’t i don’t think. the vesc will only take what it needs, at that price range you can’t expect to be able to go up steep hills at 40km’h. that’s why the vesc has a cutoff limit.

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To sum up: 90€ single motor 1800W from a 50A VESC that is a bit awkward to drive and you have to get used to it versus: 345€ dual motor with 2000W from a 100A VESC that is easy to ride and breaks much better.

Ill have to say that i live in a somewhat flat environment and wont ride faster than 35kmh i think :slight_smile: not doing that with my longboard either :slight_smile:

I know the dual motor system is A LOT better, thanks for pointing that out! Thank you also, for the links to parts and the advices.
But i would suggest to rather invest in safety gear and make that cut. Ill have to get used to a single motor untill i have the money to upgrade :slight_smile: normally i do Gaming PC flipping locally but shitty times for that now.

I know a Racer would never recommend a Golf GTI over a Porsche, but if you want to learn racing and cant afford a Porsche atm… :slight_smile:
(Yes, then you should probably just let it be, but i cant :slight_smile: )

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What wheel diameter?

97mm :slight_smile:

Hey is there a mod to increase cooling on og focboxes? they only have a little thermal pad for the mosfets and that’s it. the heatsink hardly does anything it looks like.
It’s a mtb so yes cooling is pretty important here.

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You probably will, I never skateboarded before building an esk8 (did snowboard so not completely new to boardsports).
I’d say aim for a loaded top speed of 45kmh (unloaded ~50kmh), it will feel crazy fast the first rides but you will get more comfortable with every ride.

You don’t have to go full speed all the time but it’s nice to have the extra speed if you want it.
I use mine for commuting and usually keep it around 30-35kmh with a max speed of 47kmh.

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Thx, I’m troubleshooting this
random micro braking/studdeting problem, when I accelerate . Driving me nuts I thought it might be from these extensions. I removed theses and that didn’t fix the problem. I think this is a Unity fw issue. I was getting the same from my other Unity.

Thanks! That’s my top speed hopefully (would be like 44 kmh weighted with the calculator)

bottom or top mounted?

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Got a problem

I just reprogrammed by motors and they were detected fine with hall sensors and were fine on bench testing then when I rode on the street suddenly they would cog at low sp eedsand require a bit of a push to get going

I programmed again and same problem

What could it be and should I just scrap my sensors and go hfi

They are flipsky motors and Grampa vesc

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25-35° is normal range. 35 is the most carvy of them

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I’m looking into buying an Evolve GTR. First I wanted to go with the Bamboo GTR but the weight limit did put me off now. The limit says 100kg. I’m 110kg. The Carbon GTR is a bit out of my budget but has a limit of 120kg.

Now, I don’t really get the different weight limits as the the electronics are the same. Only the deck is different and in my book flex would be safer as the carbon deck can crack (read a lot of stories about the previous carbon GT deck). The only thing I could imagine as being problematic indeed is the ground clearance of the bamboo deck.

Any suggestions regarding the weight limit? Is it only a “safe” number and the bamboo deck might have no problems with 110-120 kg incl. clothes and backpack?

Sooo I’ve read TKP is a bit less stable than RKP at higher speeds. I was wondering if you just drop the angles on the TKP setup can you achieve similar stability to RKP setups???

Never run TkP in my life so was just curious. Thanks thanks.

I have found, and this is only my personal opinion, that TKP’s at 45 rear and 50 front are very carvy yet still stable. The bushing setup on TKP’s is more subjective than RKP’s as the move a lot more, but once the bushings are dialed in you can go fast and still be stable. I have 35mph boards with SR TKP’s.

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which side is slack side?

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