While in theory thatās correct, an esk8 has several times the power running through it of even a very powerful gaming computer, in a far smaller set of electronics, without nearly as much standardization or rigorous testing.
You will break stuff, and have to replace it. The thing that breaks may take other things with it. If you buy cheap/low power stuff, you may (will) want to upgrade eventually.
Chances are youāll have to acquire some tools too, and those are part of the expense as well.
All in all, I think the 1400 euro estimate isnāt too far off the mark.
A little more respect would be really nice
I mark most of my posts on questions as āIām a newbie so get a second oppinionā, how about you helping people here out when Iām so bad at it :)?
And yes, youāre right, Iām no expert on this topic
And Iām sure you were not born as one too, right?
I think @Hicklinc should tell me if I am not a big help. If he doesnāt want me to answer his question / share my thoughts, I would stop doing so
But I donāt really feel like this is your decision.
The first respect is earned by politeness
That is all the respect I need
i think its a bit early for such assumptions, and that for the sole reason that your own perception of what a premium board actually is has yet to developā¦
i was also thinking my first diyeboard mod was the answer to everythingā¦ 2 years and the constant desire for more and better, i got 2 builds, more than 4k euros less and i still improve and spend moneyā¦
Sure
But no reason to be disrespectful @MysticalDork was able to be constructive and nice, you were able to do so too
Thatās all Iām asking him for
i also would add safety gear to the equation, its too often overlooked
i know you only go for a 30ish km/h build, but honestly beyond 45 i would strongly advise for a fullface, crash jacket and all the other bells and whistles, and that is quite some money in itself, more than the build youre just planning
would 2 10s2p packs in series be a 10s4p? what about 2 in parallel? How would you wire these 2 10s2p packs differently for the 2 different scenarios? Assuming they are already built and put together 10s2p packs
series would make a 20s2p. parallel would make a 10s4p. Parallel means + and - wires on both batt connects together. Series means the - of one pack connects to the + of the other pack and your two remaining + and - has the combined voltage of both packs.
No offense but do not try this until you understand the concept of why that is. Can get zappy real fastā¦
Paralleling packs is generally okay as long as both packs are of same voltage (s count) as long as wiring etc are reasonableā¦ Combining series is only recommended if both packs are of same type of cells and same age, otherwise there will be balancing problems. Ideally both packs should have similar build architecture too for identical resistance etc.
Got these old scooter packs real cheap, they have thier own little BMS each. Was considering keeping them together in 10s2p packs as theyāre all nicely put together already because taking them apart and measuring the capacity of every cell to build from the ground up would be a big taskā¦
