Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

this is really just a wip, im not risking my health about this

if i really keep the spacing on the mounts i will order fat m4 spacers 10x10mm instead of those flimsy standoffs

about the ride this provides, it actually feels a bit more carvy than the 110s before, i think the gummies allow easier leaning because of the narrow contact patch - but they will be replaced with 6" evolve tires soon, curious how these will feel

i can say tho that this is a lot more stable allready compared to before

in the end like i said, the spacers on the mounts will be 10x10, and on each shoulderbolt there will be 2x 20x20 spacers - i dont think there should be any concerns about integrity

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Ahh I was just going to use epoxy and the micro spheres like I saw in the video is the 4228 superior also what about the 419d on the board what’s that process

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I applied that stuff once in a small enclosed space once… I forgot what I was talking about…

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Is it as easy to clean off as epoxy

Is… epoxy easy to clean off? I feel like once you get it into the motor windings that’s final…

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Oh I meant when your scrapping it off the magnets

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Oh, yeah, I wouldn’t really say it’s for battle hardening that way. It’s not like epoxy. But very liquid and will get inbetween all the little air gaps in the stator windings… It’s great for protecting the windings. For the magnets I would say epoxy is more structural in that way

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naa fam. man wants to make bitches wet from the casket

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:see_no_evil:

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Looks pretty fun

Epoxy is much better, use that.

I still fail to understand why microspheres though as filler. If I did it, I’d use solid epoxy.

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does the unity manage to pull 80a x2 (160a across dual) constantly?

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Which is the standard battery charging connector to go with? DC Jack 5,5 x 2,1?

from one side i was told the final result will be stronger, from the other side i was told it will be lighter…
what i can definetly say its easier to apply because its way less fluent

either way it doesnt sound like a bad deal :man_shrugging:

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Microspheres
A: thicken the epoxy, B: make it less dense, C: make it much easier to sand. B and C make it a good choice for modelbuilding and composites work, but they don’t really add much value for motors.

Honestly I’d rather go with either wood flour or fumed silica, which both thicken the epoxy very significantly without reducing the density as much, and don’t have as much of an effect on sandability, neither of which really affect motors.

If you need ridiculous strength, chopped carbon fiber (or other fibers such as glass or basalt) can be used as a filler as well. The result looks like a recently-regurgitated feline hairball, but can have tensile strength near or exceeding that of aluminum.

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As with most esk8 and small-EV related things, define “constantly”. A few seconds, half a minute, five minutes, half an hour? With or without forced air cooling? With or without an additional heatsink?

And of course, the other side of that question: What are you doing that will be drawing 160A “constantly”? Accelerating up a 5-mile-long steep-ass hill?

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As with everything anything is mostly better than noting.
Just wanted to reach out to anyone who has it so they can comment on it’s performance from ad least any angle.

and enertion were making 10min vids of it pulling 80a or so in the open.

I wounder does it only run like 60a max in open
and if placed in with heat ie in an enclosure would it just be the same as reg focbox
in terms of performance after a good 10 min ride.

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Yes, 2.1 x 5.5 for up to 5A. Positive/red center pin

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Can you recommend a 42V 5A charger? A charging percentage indicator would be awesome if there are any chargers with tg that built in!

Make sure your battery can take it.