Looks great!
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Get the ones that are for synthetics. Normal dyes wonât work very well
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@BluPenguin any thoughts on the eBay listings for loctite 680? 50ml for ~$16-18 w/expiration dates listed about a year out.
10ml is $16 on Amazon⌠50ml is $28⌠Shit be expensive⌠But I couldnât only buy 10ml knowing the 50ml is so much cheaper⌠and then thereâs the sketchy ass ebay. Where did you buy?
Honestly I think I got a 10ml bottle off amazon a couple years ago and itâs still mostly full⌠A single drop does an entire bearing⌠You donât want to get generous with it, that stuff wicks like the devil and locks anything up it touches. I feel like unless youâre doing production, 50ml is way overkill, youâll never get to use it all before it expires lol
Can you check to see if yours has already expired? AFAIK expiry date doesnât mean shit for blue and red. Would presume it doesnât for green either, but some reassurance would be good.
This is speaking for esk8 usage atleast. Expiry date most likely matters for highly critical applications.
Also - you apply your drop once the bearing is seated and let it wick, right?
I think it has actually lol. If I recall right, expired just means it gets more gooey and doesnât wick as good, but still works.
It depends on how tight the bearing fits tbh. If itâs a tighter fit, Iâll put a drop on my finger and run it around the hub bearing surface then press it in. If itâs really loose Iâll put it on a pick or something sharp and dab it around the gap and let it wick in⌠I usually donât use the applicator tip for this because even on the 10ml bottle the drops comes out quite large and it gets all over the bearing seals n crap
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i bought a 50ml blue âloctiteâ GLUE bottle for 3.11âŹ.
Its just like glue from the consistency. Works really well though, if you have the time to wait for it.
Well my dumbass didnât realize the motor shaft is too long for the 3ds gear drives. Is it fine to just take a dremel to it to shorten it up?? Tips or tricks to make sure I donât fuck it up too bad ??
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poke the motor shaft through a ziploc bag and cut away. Metal bits stay out, motor in the bag.
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Starting a small notch with a metal file right where you want your cut is helpful when dremeling.
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Ill take a look if it isnât the wheel pulley, i didnt tighten my belts that much, so im quite curious as to why it makes that sound.
You were right, it is indeed the wheel pulley. Loosening the belt does not work though, feelsbad. Looks like im the one cursed with clicking bearings 
imma try if switching to different bearings might work.
I always forget : is it better to get a low kv motor with low reduction or a higher kv motor with a different ratio ?
For efficiency
I think itâs low kv but I canât recall, and I have no idea why one could be better than the other
Aight, slightly stuck, hooking receiver to a flipsky 4.2
GND = -
Tx = tx
Rx = rx
5v = 5v
S = 3.3 or adc?
S is probably PWM out, goes to the white wire on the 3 pin connector along with vcc and gnd
Tx/Rx is uart out and goes to the masters Tx/Rx ports
Choose one or the other
If it gets the data from the vesc then go with uart and leave S unconnected.
If it gets data from the receiver (the VX1 does this, separate cable for battery voltage) then you can use PWM (S) and leave Tx and Rx unplugged.
5V to 5V, GND to GND for both scenarios.
Edit: @YUTW123 can probably tell you more about it
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I already have weather stripping between the modules of my enclosure but I was wondering If I should use some type of vinyl tape or something so seal it more and also give it a cleaner look?
Something like this but 2â vinyl instead of electrical tape
High kv. because mechanical advantage