Ahhhh thanks man what a god damn struggle this is Hahahaha.
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You sir are a life saver. Appreciate it.
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Yeah theyâre definitely not meant to come off easy. Takes a lot of heat to get the four screws off. The loctite start to burn and maybe smoke a little around the 2 minute mark. The two screws to either side could also come off with the the original heating and the opposite side might need like 30 seconds of reheating. Not any easy task, and make sure donât make the same mistake I made and have the torch to close
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Ahhhh got it. Got the screws off. Do I need to head the rest of it to pull it off as well??
Holy fuck. That was a god damn struggle. Thanks again man.
I donât have too much experience with this. Iâd try lithium grease, maybe MG Chemicals 8461. But I donât know if thatâs the best thing for the job.
Does it really matter if they rust though? The surfaces that mate should stay shiny and the other surfaces shouldnât matter
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You got it off now? What width hanger you going with?
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Yea hahah shit took me like over an hour lol. Goin with the surfrodz 260.
Also might just go with the blue threadlocker lol.
Nice! Yeah blue loctite is the way to go
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Iâm delving into the world of batteries and know nothing. Whatâs wrong with making a pack with these batteries?
Search this forum for âLiFePO4â
TL;DR they are better than li-ion in most metrics except range per weight, which is a rather important metric for most folks.
Half my boards are LiFePO4
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I have a problem with my battery - actually, range it gives me.
Battery is 12s8p 30Q (24000mAh pack = 1036Wh), at most 20 cycles on it. Cells are from nkon.
I started with 50V (4.17V per cell) and finished with 38.1V (3.18V per cell). 16484mAh out.
Even if I take out that 0.4V to full battery (5% = 1200mAh), I am still at 17684mAh. Even if I calculate that my draw was 10A per cell (which is not true, but for worst case scenario calculation), then 30Q should have capacity of 2800mAh (whole pack = 22400mAh)
22400 - 17684 = 4716 mAh left (= 393mAh per cell)
So, by this calculation, I should have 393mAh left in cell at 3.18V?!?
Question is:
Where are my mAhs??
If you look at screenshots, I have drained 706Wh. Where is the rest?
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First, the capacity is rated for a drain from 4.2v to 2.5v. Youâre cutting off early for spec sheet. The life cycles are also rated based on a 2.5v cut. Second, at 10A, the 30Q is rated on spec sheet to 2700mah. 3000mah is achieved at 0.2c (0.6A continuous drain until 2.5v).
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look how cheap those cells are tho O_o
No, I still donât get it.
I am taking my data from here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?417248-Test-Review-of-Samsung-INR18650-30Q-3000mAh-(Pink)
At 10A discharge 30Q should have around 2800mAh until 2.8V. And you do realise that I am not drawing 80A constant? Probably less than 30A most of the time. Look at my consumption: 23.1Wh/km (37.17 Wh/mile) and my range is 30.3km (18.83 miles). That sounds normal for 12s8p?
Even if I calculate with 2700mAh, that is 933Wh for whole pack. You think I have 227Wh left from 3.17v to 2.8v?
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Yes but those cells are HUGE
Look at a tape measure and visualize how big 38mmâ x 120mm is. Those are very hard to fit in a skateboard. They are also very heavy. But every other metric is great. High-current, last a very long time, works better in cold, super fast charging, et cetera
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guessing wildly: by chance are you measuring the consumption of 1 VESC out of 2?
Nop, if each vesc consumes 23.1Wh, my range wouldnât be even 20km.
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My new school Boas are going to be delivered this week and I am thinking about dying them purple or blue. I searched around and there are a few reports of dying wheels potentially leading to chunking. Is there any truth to this? What is the best way to dye a white wheel like the Boa Constrictor - is RIT dye the way to go?
Whatâs the maximum length of power leads going to escâs? I know too long is bad without extra caps but what would a reasonable max length be?