Yes
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i did 64kmh (close to 40mph) on electric mountainboard and survived
…but highly do not recommend trying that 
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Shua, try to be easier to help.
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So sorry will remember that in future
Just really confused about bearing stuff at the moment
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I’m a little new to the ek8 scene, but I’m currently putting together a build that’ll probably be using dual 6374 170kv motors. I’ve heard that Alien Power System motors are good, so I was on their site, but I have no idea what that differences are between the following motors (Other than the occasional wattage difference):
Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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Does anyone know what FW and RW mean on the vx2 pro? It is changed by holding break and pressing the bottom settings button.
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Its the direction.
FW - forward
RW - reverse (rewerse according to flipsky) 
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The remote actually does not know if its in forward or reverse ironically. It just changes back and forth and sends reverse command to ESC. For ex. Switch to reverse, turn off unity, switch back to forward and turn unity back on. Now forward is reverse and reverse is forward
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APS motors are hit and miss in terms of quality control. I would go Torqueboards or Maytech in that same 170-190 range.
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Some of the APS are also clearly rebranded maytechs too. Just buy it from the source.
Haggy is another great option. Like @dareno says, click the order button and your doorbell rings.
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Thanks, just ordered Metr Pro
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So I did these two wizards for both my esc’s , they are connected via CANBUS now and master is “0” and slave is “1” … and they now are turning both motors the right way 
So happy I managed that with help from the community
I used the ackmaniac version
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Ackmaniac for the win.
Glad you got it to work
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Thank you @xsynatic 
yeah I’m very happy I got this far … but I still think there is a lot to be done later this week.
I have my Metr pro coming in the mail, and I need to put in all the data by hand, like pulley teeth count and wheel size etc.
Oh and need to connect @janpom ‘s @Davega
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Is someone using a 80A fuse on his antispark switch pcb?!
I am, but is it ok?
Most people aren’t, because the fuse adds extra resistance. Shorting the main battery leads is unlikely.
I’ve been able to get them off after being pretty stuck using a flat head as a crow bar basically and hitting the stem/rod of the screwdriver with a hammer, basically tapping it around different sides until it pops off. Haven’t had to resort to a torch yet but good to know what to do once my method stops working.
That enclosure looks really good but i am on a tight budget currently and im not gonna spend 110 dollars on an enclosure. i have access to nylon printing so i was hoping to design and print my own enclosure. to be honest i don’t understand circuits very well but most of the diagrams i have seen show one charging port for both batteries. the problem i have is that i am connecting 2 4s batteries in series but my LIPO charger can only handle 1-6s batteries for charging, meaning i have to charge one at a time. is there a way to have a charging port for both batteries or will i need to have a way to access the batteries?
You could definitely have 2 charging ports, but for a single one you need a new charger I’m afraid.