@MysticalDork Any good Amazon links to those?
The vesc recirculates the excess current back through the motor, while dissipating as little as possible internally. Most of the heat is dissipated in the phase wires and the windings of the motor.
The vesc never intentionally generates heat - itâs either supplying current to the motor, regenerating current from the motor, or recirculating current inside the motor. With the power levels we operate at if the vesc converted even 50% of it into heat, it would melt into an incandescent puddle in about thirty seconds. Itâs very efficient.
Once the maximum battery current is reached, the vesc starts recirculating the extra motor current back on itself. This is a gross oversimplification though - thereâs three phase wires, twelve mosfets and three current shunts, and the two wires to the battery. Via some very fast and clever math and switching, the vesc can:
A: determine the position, direction and speed of the motor, and thus its ability to generate voltage/current.
B: calculate the exact speed and order in which to switch the mosfets in order to generate a particular braking current, while
C: also converting some or all of that three-phase AC current into DC to feed to the battery.
All in real time, under changing conditions. All without locking up and landing you on your face, or accidentally frying itself with the kilowatts of power flowing through its puny circuits.
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Yeah, I had a 6p for about three years, but it finally succumbed to the dreaded Nexus Boot-Loop of Death.
Oof, well thereâs your problem - stainless hardware. Yes itâs pretty and wonât rust, but itâs much softer than alloy steel, and thus far more prone to breaking or stripping. Just switching to class 12.9 button head screws would help immensely.
Unfortunately low head socket cap screws are kind of a niche item, so Amazon doesnât have any good options. You might try McMaster if youâre in the US, or Accu.co.uk in the UK.
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Iâm in neither XD Iâm the cousin country (canada)
lol youâre on your own then XD
Another idea if youâre stuck with button head/stainless is to go with a torx drive rather than hex - FAR less likely to strip. Iâve never stripped a torx, but I have twisted the heads right off of torx screws before.
Looking on McMaster, the absolute best possible no-expense-spared option would be metric A286 high-strength stainless torx button-head screws. Nearly as strong as class 12.9, corrosion resistant, and torx for absolute strip-proof-ness. Unforunately theyâre like $3.5 a piece.
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Are there any pneumatic wheels thatâll fit a Caliber II truck?
Yes. Sixshooters, Bergmeisters, 3dservisasâ FatBoy, and more!
Bear in mind that just because the wheel will fit, that does not guarentee that your whole drivetrain will. You may run into space limitations trying to fit two motors and two drivetrains (gearboxes, pulleys, etc) on a regular Caliber II truck, much less having clearance to avoid wheelbite.
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Guys. Can someone confirm whether on a canbus setup, The slave vesc ppm settings have absolutely no bearing at all and both vescs follow the master ppm settings?
I bought an bestech bms for a side project. Didnât pay attention to the âmax continuous charging currentâ that is 5AâŚ
So my brakes would be weak af⌠Can I override this value since itâs just charging for a short period under braking?
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Can somebody recommend good gloves with Wrist guards?
Quick question, I just checked out the Enertion Unity app. It doesn´t mention anywhere the vesc tool where it is a derivative from. How can that be???
enertion lies because they donât want to fulfill their legal obligations to release the source code
TLDR; they break the law
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Gotcha, okay this now makes sense!
So your battery can accept up to 5A continuous but you can set your motor current max brake higher.
@MysticalDork did I finally get this right? 
What is your guyâs opinion on this, i have been told its a good thing and a bad thing. If this isnt the best option what else should i use? not a fan of the loopkey bcuz i want an antispark
There arenât really any âgoodâ antispark on the market right now. The best one is out of stock and the other good ones are all in design/prototype/testing phases. So, none commercially available, but some are open-source if youâd prefer to make one.
Loop key is still the best, for a short time.
You can use an AS150 like @deckoz did.
ok, the problem for me is im HORRIABLE at soldering and theres no way in hell i would be able to make a loopkey and a triple adapter(xt60 to xt 90 to xt90) for me its not worth buying all the connecters as well as the wire needed so i thought this would just end up being cheaper.
Then use anything except DIYE 
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ok haha what do u think of the mboards one