this
sounds scary as fuck!
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ill for sure post something if I decide to put it together
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possibly. I plan on running 40amps per motors to the rear. and 30-40 amps per motor for the front.
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I dunno dude something about back emf, and physics, and electron phasing, and @shart graphs and coggingā¦
plus the minor factor of how the fuck you going to manipulate two remotes while trying to achieve optimum performanceā¦(insert k00kface)
you ask me youāre on a foolās errandā¦
but aināt my monkeys, aināt my circusā¦
vaya con diosā¦ leave the youtube footage in your willā¦
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Someone told me that you shouldnāt run pneumatics with 50xx motors. Although I am pretty small, 135lb (~61kg). Being a college student I only have the current choice of either bigger motors, or pneumatics. Iāve wanted pneumatics for a while and currently these motors seem to have more torque then I could ever use. They are 5065 flipsky. Iāve been wanting pneumatics forever. Would I be okay putting pneumatics on until I can afford bigger motors? Or would I be wasting my time?
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Youāll be fine as long as youāre not hitting too many hills. You could also go with a smaller diameter pneumatic like 6 or 7" instead.
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The reason you normally donāt want to use 50mm motors with big wheels is the great generation. If you live in a cool climate, are light in your feet and donāt ride like an insane monkey fucker (looking at you @Sender 
) you should be fine.
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I mainly want them because in Cleveland our sidewalks also have massive potholes
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Get some 6in numies, 6 shooters or TB nummies, you should be fine at 135.
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Iām really digging @torqueboards tiresā¦ and their pricesā¦ great suggestionā¦ and pump them up to their MAX, @JoelM, youāll be fineā¦ youāre starts and stops may suffer a might, but juss cruiseā¦ youāll be fine!
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The starting and stopping wonāt be as bad as these dammed bricks I ride on at campus. For every 3 bricks, 2 are missing. Itās like trying to ride around a damn minefield in Germany during WWII
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just everyso oftenā¦ especially when new to youā¦ check the motor tempsā¦ then increase the throttle pulls, amp draws etcā¦check motor temps often when itās all new to youā¦ get to know your set-up and treat it good, and sheāll treat you fineā¦ your board wonāt be the fastestā¦ but donāt worry it will be fun!
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āāā
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What temp would you consider to be too high? I usually check and keep an eye, but I only base max temps off my own standards. So I donāt really know what most people consider too hot
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when they become unconformable to holdā¦ theyāre fucking hotā¦ like 135~140 degrees, at the can stator temp, I really donāt knowā¦ you can set temp cut-offs etcā¦ theyāre HOTā¦ back off a littleā¦
Iād suggest you work you way up, from warm to hot rather than work your way downā¦ when they get too hot to handleā¦ there too hot
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Oh, yeah I never let my motors get past āpretty warmā
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If youāre happyā¦ youāre motors will be happyā¦ if you get bigger tiresā¦ youāll get more heatā¦
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I am aware of that. Do you know if those little push on 3d printed fans do anything for these motors? I know for cnc machines and different types of motors, those fans basically make a whole new spec sheet. I just donāt know if they do anything for these motors
On my 63xx maytechs (lots of large vents), the fan I printed up for it brings down thermals by as much as 15-20C. On other more sealed design (no vents on stator side, only can), less than 5C. So effective IF there are large slots for big airflow potential.
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people will argue the aerodynamics of the benefits forever on the internetsā¦ but feature thisā¦ we have a mass of matter circulating through cooling airā¦ how much better are you really going to make itā¦ on sealed cansā¦ when youāve solved at problem, you have only band-aided the problemā¦ the stator gets hot not the cansā¦ yes they get hot, but because of the statorā¦
i think whatever floats your boatā¦ me personally i thinkā¦ why add mass, aerodynamic drag, and complication to not address the problemā¦ i think theyāre bullshitā¦
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