Does anyone know if a Ollin pulley will fit a evolve supercarve trucks
You should be fine, i have split ppm on two flipsky esc also, make sure you program each vesc individually and then make sure only 1 red cable is connected to ppm split cable connection.
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Yah looks like a kosher setup to me and should be getting good values. Like @tipsy said if you really want to get to the bottom of it taking the can off and examining the components individually is the way to go from here only other thing I can think of is something between the magnets on the can/rotor and the windings/stator, if the values look pretty much the same then probably not a short in the windings if it has to go half the distance through same (average) resistance wire it will be half the resistance, if you can get it showing milliohm or smaller resistances as bigger values it helps but looks all the same to me. Would look for scuff marks on the magnets in the can if going that far but can be more or less difficult to get the can on and off without proper tools.
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Yes I figured removing the can will be hard without tools and experience and I donāt want to risk damaging it. I will see if I can get a more precise range on the multimeter.
I sent a mail to Torqueboards and I trust that they will find a solution for me. Thanks a lot to you and @tipsy. 
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ā
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Hahaha 47x15 
youāre almost there.
when configuring the master, in the app configuration ppm tab enable āmultiple esc over canā and traction control if you want, and in the app configuration general tab set the controller ID to 0 (or whatever).
when configuring the slave, in the app configuration genral tab set the app to āno appā, set the controller ID to 1 (or whatever, anything but the same number you assigned to the master), and enable āsend status over CANā
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So I actually had a similar issue with one of my DD motors. It was stuck. I kinda just tapped it with a mallet while turning the motors (with some force since it was stuck). Which freed up the motor from sticking. I would advise you to not do this without checking with @torqueboards but it worked for me on two of my motors when I had the same issue. Image below in reference to where and what direction I tapped the motor.
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Cool! Will give that a go, thanks! And thanks very much @AngryTrucker for sharing your amazing memory!
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Cheers Alex. Great to see what the cells are. Found some stuff on them from Mooch. 5amps each at 8p so ~40amps total discharge. Yup power to weight wouldnāt be ideal, but reasonable capacity. Have you used one of these ? Your pics? Experience with it?
Iāve got 3 of those packsā¦ from when I obtained them at $230 each. That was greedy!
I donāt think I ever needed to pull more than 40A for more than a couple of seconds. In the booklet, Hitachi says 50A max output current, but thatās on the edge of the cell specs.
The only problem for an eSK8 application is the way the internal BMS shuts down the pack at the end of a charging cycle. So if youāre braking hard for more than a few seconds, it will enter a charge cycle, and you might find your battery has shut down when you want to accelerate again. Replacing the BMS could be an option for that. Upgrading the cells too at a later stage is a possibility.
Works great on an eBike. Works great if you have physical brakes. I swap the pack between different vehicles, Bike, electrified/kite buggy, and single 6364 powered skateboard contraption, ā¦ and garden tools. I can do 30km without any pedalling. And way much more than what my legs can deal with on a skateboard.
Anyway, thatās not perfect, but itās a pretty capable high capacity battery at a reasonable price in that part of the world. The ninja turtle look is just a bonus!
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Has anyone motorized a bike trailer to use with a powered board ?
like how? The trailer pushing you?
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More like helping out the emtb
Mostly helping with breaking and going from stop
Would love to be able to haul 50+kg equipment in the trailer but Iām a bit afraid that it would be too much for the emtb, also would be safer for breaking
@BluPenguin
My board runs off of 4 Turnigy 5s 5000mah Lipo packs and I was wondering what voltage I should use as a cut off for my VESC? When I search on google some say down to 3v per cell is ok and some say that 3.7v is critically low. I canāt seem to find any numbers from Turnigy either.
for the longest life of my lipos I call 3.5v per cell my ultimate cut-off you can run them deeper into their cycle if you donāt give a shit how long they last.
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As a general rule of thumb, pouch style RC lipo cells really need to be babied more than cylindrical li-ion cells. You wonāt instantly kill them by going all the way down to 3v/cell, but you will hurt their (already somewhat limited) cycle life. Iād recommend staying above 3.5-3.6v with lipos, and above maybe 3.2v on cylindrical cells.
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Has anyone tried velcroing everything to the deck including the enclosure? thinking of going lazy on my next build and basically turning the underside into a velcro carpet 
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