Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

Yes, but I canā€™t recommend you do that.

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I bought that from himā€¦Yes you are right, it di not last long and the DRV8302 chip it is too expensive here to be replacedā€¦Time to put some more $$$ for a better oneā€¦Thanks for the replayā€¦

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Its a reference design 4.12, maybe not even manufactured by MakerX since there are so many floating around, they fill their purpose of BLDC @ >40 battery amps, any more than that and/or FOC and they die.

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Yesā€¦I build that board for my daughter in lawā€¦But when I use itā€¦I kill the VESCā€¦Thanks for the infoā€¦

No worries, are you on the heavier side of the continuum? If so, its pretty reasonable a single 4.12 burned out under 200+ lbs, just the wrong use case unfortunately.

I has deck and trucks, but no hardware to mount the truck to the deck.

I has Ace near my home and Fastenal near my work.

What kind of bolts and nuts should I buy for this purpose? I has plenty of time, so I can even order online from McMaster-Carr if they have better quality hardware.

Iā€™m not just trying to make @5300 proud, I myself have bad memories of stripped screws and seized bolts. Instead of grabbing random hardware off the shelf, Iā€™d like to tap into that esk8.news brain trust

Titanium = #1. You can go with 12.9 black oxide for the stuff that wonā€™t get wet and save some $$. Stainless has its placeā€¦ Head type depends on your needs, but as far as drives, allen > most others.

Also might be worth taking the opportunity to use M5 hardware instead of 10/32.

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You can get plated 12.9

Titanium is not #1 in my opinion. Its #1 lookswise, sure

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What is your choice then?

usually whatever I find on the floor

Zinc plating is nice. You can get it in black too if you donā€™t like the silver look

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And weight. Half the weight of steel, and still strong enough for most of our applications. Iā€™ve got a lot of hardware in my EBS deck, and the weight savings isnā€™t insignificant.

No, I am 80 kilos right now, and I have a problem of adrenaline rush, I like to push things to the limits, so using that board was a stupid decisionā€¦I will check some options for my daughter in lawā€¦And most important, keep using my own boardā€¦

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I am supposed to use four bolts and nuts for each truck, correct? since I need this hardware for just the trucks, and not enclosure, the durability of the bolt over its lifetime is more important to me than itā€™s weight.

OH SAE CAN YOU SEE, HOW RY HAS INFLUENCED ME I might try out M5 instead of the standard 10/32

Should I use split ring washers when mounting trucks to the deck? Otherwise, should I be using nyloc nuts or regular nuts with adhesive?

For durability you might consider stainless or aviation grades. Grade 8 and 12.9 are strong but brittle, they snap instead of bend. Ti is a good choice just expensive.

Donā€™t use split ring, use regular washers, and nyloc nuts.

What? In no way whatsoever is titanium #1

The highest consumer grade titanium for hardware is still under grade 8 steel for the relevant mechanical properties.

Itā€™s literally only for weight and looks, and the weight is genuinely fucking negligible. Doing optimal solder joints through the entire build would save more weight than To hardware.

Donā€™t fool people lol
Use Zinc/Aluminum flake 12.9/SAE equivalent hardware in builds exposed to elements. Price increase over black oxide is absolutely negligible.

Nuts can be plated grade 8 flange nyloc

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High grade bolts are great, I use a lot of them. However, they arenā€™t necessary for holding on my enclosure, and itā€™s arguable if they are necessary for fastening the trucks to the board.

Calling the weight difference ā€œgenuinely fucking negligibleā€ shows where your mind is at.

Ti is #1 in excesive price, weight savings, looks, and getting a long-winded reply from broken-ankles-mcDick.

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Ultimate tensile strength is not the only thing to look at here. There is a reason why aviation fasteners do not use class 8.8 / 12. They crack and fail suddenly under extreme vibration loads. Being able to bend and stretch is a bonus here, because you can recognize failure without complete separation of parts.

People who just look for huge numbers in fasteners do not understand there is a time and place for them, but for a skateboard, not only are those numbers excessively large (youā€™re using extreme tensile strengths to hold together wood and aluminum? lol)

Know the material and failure. Rust will weaken your fastener exponentially. Do you wipe down your hardware with protective oil after every ride? No? Use stainless. Your baseplate will crack before your bolts will.

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If someone wants to spend Ā£100 on titanium bolts then go ahead :slight_smile:

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Out of everything we buy in this hobby, this is what you find absurd? :joy:

I rather spend money on titanium than buy overpriced cough trampa cough

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