yea it seems its no particular screw thatās causing the issue because I rotated out tightening each one individually flush against the mount and the sound appears no matter which screw is tightened fully. It seems to be just when the motor is tightened fully the circlip grazes the mount. wondering if I should bust out the file on the mount and start tinkeringā¦
I would definitely file the mount then
And put about 5 drops of oil on all that stuff too where the circlip is
Something fairly thin. A light machine oil/sewing machine oil/3-in-1 oil is a good choice.
Also, gun oil works great if you have that laying around. If youāre going to buy something, just get 3 in 1
I put that on most moving parts on the esk8s
omg that was so dumb it was the motor shaft actually grazing the mount at certain part of the rotation. Anyway, dremeled it smooth all good now. Will still be getting some sweet oil tho
Glad it was an easy fix. If it wasnāt the shaft/circlip, then the next possible culprit would be dirty/damaged bearings/bent shaft, or magnetic particles stuck to the magnets inside the can and grazing the stator.
Luckily these outrunner motors are really simple so thereās not too much that can go wrong.
just kidding, looks like it is the circlip. goddamnit Iām grinding the fuck out of these mounts. Iām done for tonight tho fuck this, set of fresh eyes tomorrow, thanks for the help. Youāll prolly hear from me tomorrow
round file, make hole bigger, done
Will definitely try testing first, I want to use a better fuse but I donāt have space for a fuse holder and the inline mini blade fuse doesnāt go to 80A
You could fudge it and put a short piece of uninsulated 16AWG solid copper wire in the circuit, or put a fuse on your loopkey.
I donāt recommend fuses in the drive circuit though.
Is there any other way to protect it from going up in flames?
Thatās a complicated question. You are valuing the hardware and what you are doing indeed can help save it.
HOWEVER
I prefer to put my own safety above the hardwareās safety. If the board is melting down I want the last 2 seconds it works to be BRAKING and responding to the remote as-opposed to a fuse blowing and saving the battery and stuff but then I crash into a car because I have no brakes.
So, itās complicated.
Thatās a fair pointā¦ usually I go below running speed on campus streets and paths, so maybe have a loopkey with the fuse so I can get a change of it not creating an inferno on campus but I can bypass it for speed runs?
Edit: how would you put a fuse in a loop key? I guess solder a blade fuse to the leads and wrap the whole think?
Just make the loop key (the key part) with a fuse instead of a wire
Iāll look into that then, automotive large blade fuse with waterproof inline holder?
I make things waterproof myself, I usually donāt buy them that way
Iād just solder the fuse directly to the XT90S female
Then Iād photograph it and put it in the loopkey thread
I wonder how to do it with a slimmer AS150ā¦I guess the tube holders wouldnāt be bad external and you can insert a dud fuse in to keep brakes easily
Does anyone who has focbox hardware 1.6 has their erpm limit set above 60k? Is it safe to do so?
I know 1.7 is but not sure about 1.6.
Many gracias.