Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

yea it seems its no particular screw thatā€™s causing the issue because I rotated out tightening each one individually flush against the mount and the sound appears no matter which screw is tightened fully. It seems to be just when the motor is tightened fully the circlip grazes the mount. wondering if I should bust out the file on the mount and start tinkeringā€¦

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I would definitely file the mount then

And put about 5 drops of oil on all that stuff too where the circlip is

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thanks @b264 what kinda oil do you use?

Something fairly thin. A light machine oil/sewing machine oil/3-in-1 oil is a good choice.

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:arrow_up:

Also, gun oil works great if you have that laying around. If youā€™re going to buy something, just get 3 in 1

I put that on most moving parts on the esk8s

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omg that was so dumb it was the motor shaft actually grazing the mount at certain part of the rotation. Anyway, dremeled it smooth all good now. Will still be getting some sweet oil tho :joy:

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Glad it was an easy fix. If it wasnā€™t the shaft/circlip, then the next possible culprit would be dirty/damaged bearings/bent shaft, or magnetic particles stuck to the magnets inside the can and grazing the stator.

Luckily these outrunner motors are really simple so thereā€™s not too much that can go wrong.

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just kidding, looks like it is the circlip. goddamnit Iā€™m grinding the fuck out of these mounts. Iā€™m done for tonight tho fuck this, set of fresh eyes tomorrow, thanks for the help. Youā€™ll prolly hear from me tomorrow :joy:

round file, make hole bigger, done

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fixed, done, thanks @b264 @MysticalDork

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Will definitely try testing first, I want to use a better fuse but I donā€™t have space for a fuse holder and the inline mini blade fuse doesnā€™t go to 80A

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You could fudge it and put a short piece of uninsulated 16AWG solid copper wire in the circuit, or put a fuse on your loopkey.

I donā€™t recommend fuses in the drive circuit though.

Is there any other way to protect it from going up in flames?

Thatā€™s a complicated question. You are valuing the hardware and what you are doing indeed can help save it.

HOWEVER

I prefer to put my own safety above the hardwareā€™s safety. If the board is melting down I want the last 2 seconds it works to be BRAKING and responding to the remote as-opposed to a fuse blowing and saving the battery and stuff but then I crash into a car because I have no brakes.

So, itā€™s complicated.

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Thatā€™s a fair pointā€¦ usually I go below running speed on campus streets and paths, so maybe have a loopkey with the fuse so I can get a change of it not creating an inferno on campus but I can bypass it for speed runs?

Edit: how would you put a fuse in a loop key? I guess solder a blade fuse to the leads and wrap the whole think?

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Just make the loop key (the key part) with a fuse instead of a wire

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Iā€™ll look into that then, automotive large blade fuse with waterproof inline holder?

I make things waterproof myself, I usually donā€™t buy them that way

Iā€™d just solder the fuse directly to the XT90S female

Then Iā€™d photograph it and put it in the loopkey thread :smiley:

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I wonder how to do it with a slimmer AS150ā€¦I guess the tube holders wouldnā€™t be bad external and you can insert a dud fuse in to keep brakes easily

Does anyone who has focbox hardware 1.6 has their erpm limit set above 60k? Is it safe to do so?

I know 1.7 is but not sure about 1.6.

Many gracias.

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