Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Between silicone and neoprene rubber sheet, which is a better gasket material? And is 0.125" a good thickness for it? I have a massive roll of 0.375" neoprene foam sheet but it’s way to thick and apparently turns to dust under pressure

Edit: enclosure is 9x17…do I get a 12x24 sheet or a small sheet and make 4 ribbons for the edges with wood exposed in the middle?

Edit 2: and is it worth getting the adhesive backed version?

Edit 3: found something called SBR…supposedly this would be a better water proofing material than neoprene since its non absorbent and hella cheap

Over the past few months I have been getting a lot of over current faults when accelerating and throttling too hard. The board cuts out for about 3 seconds and then resumes as if nothing happened until I pin the throttle again. I think this is down to 1 of 2 things and wanted your advice.

1: vesc settings too high:
My vesc settings could potentially be too high and although I never had this problem when I first built the board, I may have upped the settings down the road and didn’t see a correlation between the cutouts and my changes.

2: Bad phase wire connections:
A few of my phase wires are in pretty bad shape and in danger of shorting. The wires are frayed and copper wire is exposed, one of which is almost ripped in half.

Before I put my board out of commission for a while while waiting for parts and fixing #2, could my settings be a contributing factor? Both motors lose power when this happens which makes me thing it’s not #2 (although that needs fixed as soon as my other board is ready to substitute)

Hey guys

I’ve seen “Hobbywing” mentioned more than a few times. This is the esc in Wowgo board.
Is it really that good for moderate applications? Smooth throttle/brakes?
Fool proof? (I understand it’s not configurable)

Where can I buy one to run 2 belt motors? The majority seem to be for hubs.

Thanks,
Dani

I need help finding 3D print files, I am trying to find a sort of enclosure/blanket to hold 6p 18650. Then each one I connect with wire.

Dunno about that ESC but got a jumper T16 from them (hobbywing) a week ago and no issues with the vendor quick shipping too considering think it came from China to Chicago in a few days.

Are you looking for temporary holder for spot welding or permanent case for the cells?

Couple of options for 18650 6P search here https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=18650+6P&dwh=665d23bc87648c8

Permanent, just extra protection

That works great actually!! Thanks soo much!

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How are the ESCs connected? Split PWM (“PPM”) or CANBUS or not connected at all (dual receivers/PWM/PPM)

That length of time sounds suspiciously like a DRV error or over ABS current error recovery time

Canbus

When I had my metr pro connected, all I saw were over current faults. No DRV ones.

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Try switching which ESC is “master” and see if only one ESC powers down for 3 seconds at a time instead of both.

If so, then try switching which ESC the motors are connected to. Does it switch where the faults are?

If so, try a BLDC hand test

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I’ll give it a go swapping esc’s master/slave. If I recall, swapping motors did nothing but I can try again.

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These are the kinds of things that suck troubleshooting on a 1-wheel drive setup.

But when you pick it up and toss it in the shopping cart then you’ll know how light and easy to carry it is.

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Hey Dani-

Yup, Hobbywing ESC is super smooth, the remote that comes with it is good, and it’s potted for extra water resistance.

If you can wait, Ownboard should be offering their belt version HW ESC in their accessories store soon.

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Solid neoprene would probably be okay, but neoprene foam tends to crush and stay crushed. Never had it turn to dust though.

SBR, Silicone, Nitrile or EPDM are all suitable. Silicone is usually softer (more squishy) than the others, so that could be good or bad.

I’d try to buy an adhesive-backed strip maybe 1/2"-1" wide and however long, just carefully cutting it for corners and adding a little extra silicone sealant there.

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Chunks of the neoprene foam stuck to the deck when I took it off and the edges have ‘chunked’ where it got crushed by the enclosure

Will look for some thin adhesive backed stuff then

I solder to glass fuses on the charge port. The trick is to sand it slightly with 320 grit before soldering. As mentioned above you have to be quick. Make sure to put the fuse in some foam padding to avoid destruction by vibrations.

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If vibration is an issue you can always get sand-filled fuses, either glass or ceramic.

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I think first I will try an external blade fuse on a XT90s loop key and encase it in a print to protect it, if that doesn’t work I will get the sand filled tubes and a holder

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Cheap China ESC sometimes doesn’t have brakes…now and then it just doesn’t work or is super weak but pulsing the wheel makes it work again. Any known fix?