Then definitely buy a 12mm motor pulley, your belts gonna wander all over the country with that extra 3mm of variance.
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Can always shave the wheel with a file to give belt more clearance but lose some contact patch.
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lol
10billgordons
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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA please no
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Thats not speaker specific connector, kinda old school, theres a little tab on the connector that you flip up, push the wire in, traces facing PCB, close tab.
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Yup works fine, uart and canbus are unrelated, both can work at the same time
Use the motor pulley flange as a belt guide. If you have room to space the motor so it sits further away, or move that motor pulley inboard so the flange on the pulley holds the belt away from wheel.
I’m beginning to think that the real problem is that the wheel pulley doesn’t have a flange, and that if it did, I could run whatever size belt and not worry about it touching the wheel.
Like, what I could do now is yeah, move the motor pulley and have there be an even larger gap between the wheel pulley and motor mount, but then I’m stuck with 12mm belts forever.
Anyone know where to get quality flywheel pulleys btw? (not press-fit) The ones I have didn’t allow all 6 screws to go through; I’m using only 3 
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Thanks! Looks like the nexusboards ones are only 12mm, but at least they have the flange.
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Update – turns out the washer I was using to hold the idler in place bent during usage; so even after putting the belt back in place, it gets stuck pretty much instantly:
I looked up @Boardnamics new mounts, and they have a new groove that the nut sits in
So that’s why mine is so awkard. Will try omitting the washer / buying a steel one that’s still small enough to fit next to the motor, but yes – this is definitely what’s causing the problem 
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I wouldn’t focus on the tensioner, it does exactly that, tension. The sides of the pulleys should be what keeps it off the wheel
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You are correct. I bought a new pulley anyway.
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So after some more inspection it looks like the large capacitor is ok, but I’m still in the dark about c56.
It’s definitely no longer on the board, but I have no idea if it’s even possible to replace it given that the Unity BOM isn’t available (afaik) and that the pcb is damaged… Does anyone know if resources like the BOM exist for the Unity and where they can be found? Ideally I’d like to be able to still use this esc as I’m too broke to buy another
Hey guys back for more help… The vx2 pro remote it seems only has UART and no ppm. Unfortunately when I try to get it set up it pairs fine but for some reason there is not connection? (Idk if that makes sense, like no throttle but it says it’s connected). Below are a few images of the receiver and pin setup and the VESC it’s going into. Idk if it’s worth mentioning I’m using ackmaniac tool as opposed to the VESC not sure if that has
An effect on it. Thanks again for the help.
Means your remote paired with receiver but you need to set up your vesc to control via uart
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I set the master app
To use VESC and the slave to use no APP. And also Set can forward. I’ll double check tho. Thanks guys.
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No BOM no schematic just a broke company. Thanks to @Anubis who send me a unity Iam currently into research as much as I am able to the unity. Hopefully I will be able to repair these devices in the end. Not an easy task, time is the biggest problem atm 
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