is there a name of the motor config. where you have one motor forward and one motor back? - thinking of when space is an issue, maybe dual 6375ās on caliber IIās need this config.
does this config. effect riding? perhaps it feels bad, create balance issues, or something elseā¦
any builds using this config. worth looking at as a kind of guide?
thanks
I consider myself noob with BMSās pure technical shizzle.
Iām working on a project with a 10s1p LiFePo 36V battery for an old Dewalt screwdriver. I ordered a 10S LiFePo BMS which doesnāt fit the battery enclosure of the screwdriver. I donāt want to waste another month waiting for a China shipment so Iām looking for a faster solution
Is there any way to āmodā a 10S Lion BMS to a LifePo4 's (4.2V/cell to 3.6V/cell)?
I found a 12S LifePo4 BMS in the UK with fast shipping. Can I just wire it as 10S and have a quick solution?
Is it possible to use 5.5mm bullet connectors for a battery? 10s4p 30q and 12s1p lipo with a single sk3 6374
I needs to go like this :
battery xt60 ā xt60 (wire) to 5.5mm ā 5.5mm (wire) to xt90 ā xt90 vesc.
I have a top mounted battery but a bottom mounted vesc enclosure and no way to hide the cable, except for the already drilled holes from the enclosure thats supposed to be there (evolve gtx deck without enclosure)
The problem generally isnāt mechanical strength with solder joints, even cold solder joints can be very difficult to remove however the resistance at the point of PCB -> Phase wire will be really high and can throw off inductance and resistance measurements. Those solder joints are okay, but try using more flux, more heat for a longer time and more solder.
Make sure your trucks are well tightened onto the board too donāt over do it and crack the board but those nuts/screws can back out over time especially with lots of vibrations on the board, only rattling I ever really hear is from trucks coming loose from the deck. Recording of the sound would help a lot though, fixed period sounds are usually something to do with the motor since 1 spin = 1 sound but if itās more random might be something else loose.
Only noise you should really hear from the board is a high pitch whine from the motor, more pronounced in BLDC mode but still some noise with FOC (albeit far less with some motors)
The big difference is that with sensored, you can run true FOC mode, which gives you much smoother starts. I donāt use sensors, but you want them if possible because then you have the choice.
with sensorless, itās harder for the controller to start the motor from standstill (you may have to kickstart) because the controller needs some āback emfā voltage from the spinning magnets to estimate the rotor position. sensorless motors are mechanically simpler and easier to construct.
with sensored, sensors on the motors explicitly tell the controller the rotor position, so it can easily generate torque from a dead stop
i believe vescs run sensored motors sensorless once the motor has started to spin above a certain rpm, so the sensors are really only for getting the motor started initially.