It is correct calculation but you need to account for electricity flow. For example, If you were to have the P group connections attach to the center of each group, then the nickel on each group will only carry current to the center from the outside cells, aka no more than 40A on each side of the bus connection peak. That chart is also for continuous current, it is unlikely to hold 100A for long.
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Yes, what @BluPenguin said. Also, if you solder copper wire to the nickel you can take the load off the nickel. So if you had 4 parallel cells in a row then those cells might be able to supply 20A apiece but if if you put the copper on one end of the nickel then the nickel would carry all 80A and likely overheat. But putting the copper in the center of the nickel means it’s now peaking at 40A and using 3 pieces of copper (between each cell) could reduce the nickel load to just 20A.
So topography has a LOT to do with it as well as which conductors are used
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Time to pop my mountainboard cherry. After riding a mates MB I can understand the attraction not enough to to go balls deep and fork out 4G to frank. But a hybid build is on my wishlist for this year. After AdHD gear drive build. I already have the battery built a 12S6P double stack offset pack. But I have no knowledge of trucks and mounts. I want to use a 40" spud deck reshaped with 3D printed or alloy wedges. Trampa style trucks. Wheels and mounts without spending a sqillion dollars what do you recommend? I want to have is carve like a longboard if possible.
I still have severe wobble even with new tires…
yes i have weights on the hub to balance them.
I’m just putting this here because I’m not sure if it’s worth starting a new thread, but I am suddenly getting some VESC faults for no reason. I took my 3rd ride on my new board yesterday, perfect conditions. Today I was going to go for a ride, I was about to leave, the board was upside down so I decided to spin the wheels and they just cogged and then stopped. I plug it into my PC and I’m getting FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT. I literally did nothing and now it’s suddenly not working. I reconnected the phase wires and now one side works 75% of the time and the other 10% of the time. The side that has the receiver wires coming in is the one that is only working only 10% of the time. I flipped the motor sides and the it still acts the same where the receiver side isn’t working most of the time. There seems to be no damage to the VESC so I’m not sure what’s wrong. I’ll add the fault codes in a second.
What battery amps are you running?
30A battery current, 60A motor current.
i want to leave the bullets behind, how do i choose between mr60 and mt60’s?
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Might of figured out whats wrong, measuring the continuity of the phase wires I got an open loop between one of the VESC phase wire solder pads and the motor. And its on the VESC side so its one of the ones that were already soldered when I got it… @ZachTetra
Edit: I removed the heat shrink and the bullet connector fell off the wire…
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Yeah that’s how you know it’s a flipsky, kinda their trademark.
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Surprisingly I don’t think it was Flipsky’s fault, the bullet connectors don’t come on the VESC so it was someone else.
They are still just bullets in a case but nice for making a single cut out for all three phase wires in one, pretty sure I went with mr-60 whichever is the inline ones choice was based on being able to have the electronics enclosure be a bit more streamlined. Overall happy with it but the connectors are pretty small so a bit of work getting fat wires seated in there (makes sure to put the cover on wires before soldering the connectors on too)
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Well there’s your problem… Probably wear some eye protection fill up the bullet with solder after tinning the wire and just dip the wire in as you pull the soldering iron out. If you have a little pool of solder it will stay molten in there for a while so should be easy to make a solid connection but if it tips will be splashing liquid metal (hence eye protection)
Yea that what I’m doing that right now, its how I did my XT60s and the motor side bullets
Sorry about that, I never got around to checking those, that’s how it came to me
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No worries, all that matters is that no one got hurt. 
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Is it possible to fit a bigger wheel with this setup? The distance between the wheel and the motor shaft is around 8mm and even something like cloudwheels would at 15mm and hit it. I imagine there’s nothing I can really do except get wider trucks or cut the motor shafts.
Maybe ABEC 107 wheels? Might just barely fit, and it should have the same core offsets