Back to the thread where I belongā¦ so I got this guy and it has 3.5mm bullet connectors should I get 3.5 to 5.5mm adapters for the phase wires for my motor or remove these ones and solder 5.5mm connectors?
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If you have a nice soldering iron, itās generally better to solder the new connectors, if for the only reason of having less adapters. The 3.5 has no big problem carrying the current but more adapters means more resistance.
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Thanks yea I have a ts100
Which I think is adequateā¦ appreciate the advice as usual @BluPenguin
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Always seem to have the words of wisdom for us noobz. We thank you.
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I was there once upon a time myself, I prefer giving back to community
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I am fixing my friends boosted remote.
The USB charge port was loose, and the pins have completely broken off internally. So, I will need a new port. I was wondering if I could replace the mini port with a Micro or even C?
Also, does anyone have a good source for these?
Thank you for suggestions!
Micro and mini lines up close enough that it could work, if you used surface mount, not thru hole. usbc wont line up at all, youād need a jumper pcb for that. Amazon has oodles of them.
Oh note: Do make sure on the new SMD chip that you note orientation (which way the trapizoid is vs the surface). 180 degree chip will give you reverse polarity to the PCB trace.
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What would be the best way to know if a BMS is balancing correctly? Assuming I have to check all my 12 cells, I need to do that all manually?
Would it be save to use the multi meter while the board is charging?
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Fine to use the meter while charging, just take normal precautions not to short anything outā¦ Ideally get a LiPo tester (couple bucks on banggood/AliExpress/etc) to check them all simultaneously.
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Just ordered 10pcs micro usb type Bsā¦ funny how buying a single one would have cost the same or more.
Thanks, Iāll be careful to get the wires right.
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You only need to connect the outer 2 pins, donāt even worry about the middle ones. Then be sure to glue that port down good with epoxy because you lost the load bearing pads on the PCB on each side.
Alternatively you can also be more obnoxious like me and put these things in the remote to make them wirelsss charging capable https://www.amazon.com/Bewinner-Standard-Wireless-Charger-Receiver/dp/B07M6CRQ71 
Just connect +/- to the 5v and ground lines on the pcb
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Oh yeah, I guess I can save the other connectors.
Yeah. I already realized that it will require some epoxy or jbweld. I wonder why they donāt do that in the factory.
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Because they want to make your life miserable of course.
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I guess itās like with all electronics: made to break after the end of the warranty. At $100 a remote they make good money.
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Get MR60 and solder those on instead. Donāt use sensors, especially now that HFI is a thing
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HCI?.. HFI? Thatās not available for Unity yetā¦
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Ahh, didnāt know that
If @Deodand is involved (he is) then I bet it will be at some point.
Although itās a shit-ton of work to support an obsolete product with such new features
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is the Max Braking REGEN current setting for each motor or is it total on the Unity, what is a safe value for 12s6p 30q.
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No idea about the Unity, but that 6P 30Q battery can do -24A all day and probably -50A for any short few seconds you need it to, so just set it at what you want because the battery can probably take more juice than youāre comfortable with
-50A will almost certainly buck you right off the front of the skate. Maybe start with -25A
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-25A per motor or is that total?