Yep I have those on my evolve gt AT hubs they are cheap not super grippy but enough you can still carve. The chinese hubs to go with them are horrid but you dont them. There are a few airless options too but unless you have a lot of issue with punctures I would avoidā¦
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What bearing size to go with it? Plan is to use them on 8mm axels. Hard to find.
Online I see them labeled as 16100 2RS.
Unfortunately looks like those are 10mm axle and 8mm wide. Iāll find an 8mm ID version.
638RS are 8mm ID, 28mm OD, but 9mm wide. Thatās the only size Iām finding in the 8mm and 28mm diameter. I also see them listed as 638zz.
This site looks promising
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Can I pull the hall sensor unit off of my motor?
Whatās the cheapest way to protect a deck from riding in rain? I sanded clean a old bamboo deck to 320 grit and hit it with a couple heavy layers of krylon colormaxx paint + primerā¦is that enough?
I can grab a can of Rust-Oleum crystal clear enamel to put ontop if need be
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you mayā¦ but only you truly know if you can!
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Random question I was asking myself: why would some focboxes have that marker mark on the inductor but others donāt. Or might it be a burn mark?
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Iām trying to program my Unity for the first time, but the only way to get it to stay on is when I press and hold the power button. I held it down while connecting to the Ackmaniac ESC Tool and that worked to connect and run FW upload, but it still turns off after I stop holding down the power button. What am I doing wrong?
Uh, weird. unplug the switch from the unity and CAREFULLY short the pin. The switch is a momentary, should disconnect after the press and the unity stays on by itself. The switch might be bad. Or you have the Unity auto shut off set to 1 second or something.
Edit: I take it back, press and hold the switch while you yank the plug off. Safer than shorting the pins. It should theoretically stay on after you yank the plug.
RS I think means āRubber Sealā and 2RS means rubber on both sides of the bearing
Z means metal shield
ZZ means metal shield on both sides
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Probably just from an internal process at the factory. Maybe one of the workers put that there when they assembled or tested a certain part
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Any of them. All that matters is technique. Took me about 10 mins to get good after going thru this. For 2.54PH, I had to use forceps/pliers after the fact to slightly compress the sides for it to fit into housing, but that was because I was using an absolutely trash tool.
Crimping is a beautiful skill for DIYesk8 IMO. I hate wires that donāt have silicone insulation, and I hate splicing small wires in general via soldering.
Here is the good info IIRC
I forget if this one has good info. It might, I advise checking it out.
No one is gonna see thisā¦
But - the trick so soldering male JST PH/ZH/whatever pins - pull the pin out of the housingā¦ Solder to your wireā¦ Push back in slightly, mate to female, then push rest of the way. Holds just fine on its own, but I still recommend a dab of superglue/epoxy on the pin/housing for bullshit proofing in esk8
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properly crimped wires are stronger than equivalent soldered connections
andā¦ I saw itā¦ I see your pointā¦ but nahā¦ Iām not going to super-glue pins into a JST connector.
fight me
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Fuck that, vibrations are killer
You might be right, not debating that.
But for me, I trust nothing more than shit thatās soldered together then acrylic then heatshrink then more acrylic
Had too much shit break in too many different ways to leave ANYTHING up to chance
If my theory is right, you could take a āproperly crimpedā connection, and add solder and itād be even better than just the crimping alone
Crimped is better than solder for larger gauges, using the proper crimper and lugs.
It cold welds the metals. If youāve never cut into 2AWG or larger wire crimped with quality lugs at 10+tons of pressure under a microscope and seen solid copper, you wouldnāt understand haha. The solder joint would break under vibration before the cold weld.
Each method has its place, and thereās a lot of ignorance surrounding both methods.
Not amazing crimped smaller wires can be better than soldered small wires as well. Many novices will wick waaay too much solder up >22awg leading to a fragile portion of wire.
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my experience in decades of off-road racing has shown that a properly crimped connection will survive longer than a similar soldered connectionā¦ weāve only had a very few failures and those were solderedā¦
my 'lectronics guru says un-necessary, and the heat is your enemy in this scenarioā¦ he has even more experience than Iā¦
BTW Iāll get you some pix on the bi-metallic corrosion soonā¦ I found it very interestingā¦
You donāt need to super glue them. Think about this though. If you solder them in the housing, how do you know youāre not heating it enough to permanently expand the pin hole more than taking it out and pushing it back in? I really think the pull out method is great ( hurr durr sex jokes here ) in a lot of cases.
If you like soldering to 16 1.5mm spaced pins in chintsy ass plastic housing thoā¦ Have your fun 
Definitely sounds like a high desert thing to doā¦ After the meth of course.
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Unless heās an āesk8 electronics guruā then he doesnāt know about the harsh, heavy, and extreme vibrations that esk8 have to endure
This shit is in another league as far as the amount of robustness needed
Vibrations will kill everything and anything in the most unexpected and the most expected ways. They are evil
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