Any chance someone has a picture of this wiring? i know it should be basic but im not at ease with this connection without seeing itā¦ thanks!
Would have bought those, but I have no idea how to solder that xt connector back, so I didnāt 
my ignorant self just realized i have the uart reciever cable for the vx1ā¦
do you think this would fix my problem, or atleast shift it to a minor one ?
now that i got those 6374 fixed up, id rather enjoy the increased torque instead of spreading it thin with a smaller gearing ratio
In future I can solder for you. Tāhabite en France nāest ce pas? Je te le fait en plaisir. N hĆ©sites pas la prochaine fois !
and another stupid question coming from meā¦
unity has a built in anti spark, and im about to add a xt90-s loopkey to the system
could anything bad happen from that and/or can the loopkey help longlivety of the built-in one ?
Itās just an extra added failsafe that Iād easier to replace, no harm will come from using it in addition.
where should it sit to take the spikes before the unity does ?
right now its disconnecting the -lead of the battery before it goes to the controller
I think the convention is to switch the positive side but Iām not completely certain on that.
you can ditchthe uart cable and use the unityās pwm cable instead. the receiver can do both, the only thing the option at purchase determines is which cable they send you. Since you have a unity which comes with a PWM cable you can just use it with your receiver.
But to answer your question: i donāt know if thatās the whole problem or not. Try disabling traction control also and see if it still does it. Somebody was mentioning that may also be a thing.
Traction control always seems to cause more problems than it solvesā¦ I canāt be the only one whoās noticing a trend?
so since my vx1 is connected and working in ppm right now, all i do is set the mode in vesc tool (unity tool) to uart and im good to go !?
edit: ah i got ahead of myself, you ment i should connect the pwm cable to the uart port ?
Need help with a similar issue. After 2 hours ride, all of a sudden one side of my dual FSESC died and i almost streetfaced. Iāve been blaiming my fsesc for this but then iāve realized that phase wires got damaged somehow and might got shorted. My dual FSesc is no longer working now so i need to understand if i damaged the FSESC, the motors or both of themā¦ How can I double-check this? thanks
with car batteries i allways got told to disconnect the - first, so thats why i went with thatā¦
but id like to know whats convention around here
AFAIK itāll work exactly the same either way, Iāve just seen more diagrams here with it on positive.
Take a look at the diagrams thread for some examplesā¦ Iāll try to find a link.
EDIT: Beautiful diagrams! NO WORDS (SERIOUS)
Your motors should be fine from a phase short, that will just make them brake.
You can check that theyāre ok by giving them a hand spin - they should both turn reasonably easily and smoothly.
Your ESC, on the other hand, is probably game over.
EDIT: hereās a post from @b264 detailing more about checking those motorsā¦
hmm ok if im not misstaken there is some diagrams that use the negative aswellā¦ now the only question left is does that make a difference towards protecting the anti-spark in the unity
@ahrav are your cloud wheels snug to the motor ABEC adaptor ? On my TB DD my foamies (same as cloud wheels) core are not the same size. Can the wheel rotate independently from the motor (even a few millimeters) ?
Indeed, that was my initial impression. but yesterday I noticed strange behaviour (brake, non-regular spinning) when trying to plug the phase wires in the (turned off) fsesc. I guess thatās a sign of the esc being goneā¦ correct? Does it make any sense to try and change the phase wires and / or their connectors in the ESC?
I am by no means an electrical engineer, but afaik there is literally no difference.