Any chance someone has a picture of this wiring? i know it should be basic but im not at ease with this connection without seeing it… thanks!
Would have bought those, but I have no idea how to solder that xt connector back, so I didn’t 
my ignorant self just realized i have the uart reciever cable for the vx1…
do you think this would fix my problem, or atleast shift it to a minor one ?
now that i got those 6374 fixed up, id rather enjoy the increased torque instead of spreading it thin with a smaller gearing ratio
In future I can solder for you. T’habite en France n’est ce pas? Je te le fait en plaisir. N hésites pas la prochaine fois !
and another stupid question coming from me…
unity has a built in anti spark, and im about to add a xt90-s loopkey to the system
could anything bad happen from that and/or can the loopkey help longlivety of the built-in one ?
It’s just an extra added failsafe that I’d easier to replace, no harm will come from using it in addition.
where should it sit to take the spikes before the unity does ?
right now its disconnecting the -lead of the battery before it goes to the controller
I think the convention is to switch the positive side but I’m not completely certain on that.
you can ditchthe uart cable and use the unity’s pwm cable instead. the receiver can do both, the only thing the option at purchase determines is which cable they send you. Since you have a unity which comes with a PWM cable you can just use it with your receiver.
But to answer your question: i don’t know if that’s the whole problem or not. Try disabling traction control also and see if it still does it. Somebody was mentioning that may also be a thing.
Traction control always seems to cause more problems than it solves… I can’t be the only one who’s noticing a trend?
so since my vx1 is connected and working in ppm right now, all i do is set the mode in vesc tool (unity tool) to uart and im good to go !?
edit: ah i got ahead of myself, you ment i should connect the pwm cable to the uart port ?
Need help with a similar issue. After 2 hours ride, all of a sudden one side of my dual FSESC died and i almost streetfaced. I’ve been blaiming my fsesc for this but then i’ve realized that phase wires got damaged somehow and might got shorted. My dual FSesc is no longer working now so i need to understand if i damaged the FSESC, the motors or both of them… How can I double-check this? thanks
with car batteries i allways got told to disconnect the - first, so thats why i went with that…
but id like to know whats convention around here
AFAIK it’ll work exactly the same either way, I’ve just seen more diagrams here with it on positive.
Take a look at the diagrams thread for some examples… I’ll try to find a link.
EDIT: Beautiful diagrams! NO WORDS (SERIOUS)
Your motors should be fine from a phase short, that will just make them brake.
You can check that they’re ok by giving them a hand spin - they should both turn reasonably easily and smoothly.
Your ESC, on the other hand, is probably game over.
EDIT: here’s a post from @b264 detailing more about checking those motors…
hmm ok if im not misstaken there is some diagrams that use the negative aswell… now the only question left is does that make a difference towards protecting the anti-spark in the unity
@ahrav are your cloud wheels snug to the motor ABEC adaptor ? On my TB DD my foamies (same as cloud wheels) core are not the same size. Can the wheel rotate independently from the motor (even a few millimeters) ?
Indeed, that was my initial impression. but yesterday I noticed strange behaviour (brake, non-regular spinning) when trying to plug the phase wires in the (turned off) fsesc. I guess that’s a sign of the esc being gone… correct? Does it make any sense to try and change the phase wires and / or their connectors in the ESC?
I am by no means an electrical engineer, but afaik there is literally no difference.