Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics Esk8 Mechanics
#9260

Good info in here

#9261

Can you say if it is top mount or bottom mount? :laughing:

1 Like
#9262

Bottom mount!

5 Likes
#9263

Extra CNC, hollow axles, yes. After the surface finish they need to go back to the CNC factory. That ads cost.

#9264

prob noob question, but aren’t both 30Q and 40T both Liion? when you say go Lipo for more power, which cells do you mean? just looked up difference between lipo and liion and all i get is lipo is the newer technology and has smaller form factor and Liion carry more energy density but larger cells. sorry if asnwer is obvious, new to this stuff.

#9265

Yes Li-Ion
30Q are 18650’s (size)
And 40T 21700 (size)
40T are 40% bigger I think from memory.

This depends.
Lipo are know to have less sag then li ion but once they are empty they die.
Example;
So going up a steep hill all li ions will experience sag. Basically they can only give so much power for a given time before they need to limit it to avoid over heating and such.
But once you start using it normally again (the big hill has ended) the li ion will be back to normal and they do this all the way until a very low capacity.

Lipo tend not to have much sag until a certain voltage (much higher than li ions) then they are pretty useless and need to be charged.
Lipo are often used more in MTB but if you need range then li ion is better overall.

Li ion have 1/4 to double the charge cycles of lipos. It depends basically on what you want.

2 Likes
#9266

I don’t think Lipo are worth it personally. They are heavier compared to the same energy density for a Li ion.
Used right they can be great. Look at @Arzamenable Xpham build. He uses Tattu lipos.
I personally have never tried Lipo apart from a evolve board but that does not count coz they suck ass.

#9267

thanks for clarifing that. i won’t go lipo i don’t think
i’ve use the esk8 calculator to try and work out the different ranges i’d get on the 30Q and 40T cells respectively. im at the research stage so haven’t bought hardly anything yet and so don’t know the data for the drive train section, but so far are these readings correct/have i filled in the info right??

#9268

I think I said it before but lipos really good for race boards or something light with low range. As soon as you want to get more than 10-12km range I would always swap to LiIon.
They are more light than, means more range for same weight and cheaper in the long term. Lipos usually do not hold on more than one year if you use them regularly.
LiIon is as well easier to handle. No need for storage charge etc.
If you do not want to build your own pack than ok, lipos are a good alternative, but in times of no solder packs and good battery pack vendors that shouldn’t be an issue to get a LiIon pack without to build it by your own.

One thing to add to the lipo explanation before.
Lipos have a different discharge curve. Means most time of the discharge you stay in the 4.2-3.7V area which as well results in the fact that you can longer drive faster. But as soon as you drop below 3.5-3.6V your cells do not hold a lot of charge anymore. If you do not choose your cut off voltage properly it’s very easy to over discharge your pack and with it damage the cells.

5 Likes
#9269

i was wondering about damaging cells. had read about someone killing a whole battery because they let the discharge drop below a certain a level. would i have been reading only about lipos in that case? …as in do Liions not suffer from damage if you run them below a certain discharge range?

#9270

If you discharge LiIon below 2.5V they take damage as well.
Lipos i wouldn’t discharge below 3.4V.
I had this one time accidentally happening and even with a low load on the bench I had some cells in the pack drop down to 2.7V super fast.
Luckily I noticed that fast enough and recharge them up to storage voltage again, but that did cost me for sure some charge cycles live span :sweat_smile:

1 Like
#9271

woah. so I must be careful. glad i bought the new Flipsky VX2 that has a discharge display to keep an eye on that.

also, quickly, can you tell if ive filled in the esk8 calculator correctly here?

#9272

You can set your low voltage cut off in your vesc tool. Definitely something you should do right when you are going through the setup.

About the calculator, some say the 40T is more a 25A cell and i do not know about the rest of your setup, so I can’t say if it’s right or not.

1 Like
#9273
1 Like
#9274

thank you!

#9275

Currently putting some kaly drives on my trampa deck, wondering if anyone knows where to get a 1/8" rubber riser for mountainboard trucks? Or is this not a thing because I cant seem to find any. Usualy on my lo aboard builds I have atleast a thin rubber riser between the trucks and deck just feels like there needs to be something there.

1 Like
#9276

@nowind makes some angled ones. He may be able to print you some flat ones if you need that.

MBS has flat rubber ones for their matrix trucks that come with them, can’t confirm they’d fit trampa baseplate pattern though.

Maybe @Andy87 can confirm.

#9277

But these are not necessary right?

#9278

I don’t like my mtb trucks rubbing on my bare deck personally. Gotta help absorb some vibration too.

I wouldn’t call them “necessary” though.

1 Like
#9279

Gotcha. Thank you!