No pattern whatsoever, which is part of the fun. It happens more at mid/cruising, but since I spend most of my time there, canāt be figured into the causation.
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I noticed that that feel stayed when I switched to uart instead of pwm, so not sure it is pwm related. BUT, it reduced dramatically when I disabled traction controlā¦ I wonder if it is caused by slight differences in motor kV bouncing off the erpm at different timesā¦
sounds like a deathtrap, with my riding style this would kill me 
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atleast i can say ive come full circle with my esk8 problemsā¦
my very first diyeboard also cut out randomly to the point it was dangerous, and now 2500ā¬ later i have arrived at the same point -__-
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you may be on to something there. I switched to the VX2, which is UART, at the same time that i swapped out my deck to my new drop through, which is more stable at speed on bergs.
Iām going to drop traction control first, then swap back to a regular non-uart remote.
Also, because its UART, i wasnāt able to calibrate the remoteās signal, just figured it worked differently and since it seems to line up exactly like my old remote, i didnāt question it too much.
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Itās really more of a āwhat the fuck was thatā than a deathtrap issue. By reflex I always end up looking back at the road because it feels like there should be a banana peel or something that caused the skid/slide feeling.
But yes, if youāre a more aggressive rider, that changes the situation quite a bit.
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thats exactly how it felt for me aswell, but it was 100% smooth tarmac, i just released throttle quick and cought my posture in an instantā¦
but thats also parts because of the evo angles and my bushing setup, pretty sure i would have bailed if it wasnt for that
pedestrians must have thought i have some sick dancing moves when i swung my arms around for balancing
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I had a similar issues with my 6.6 plus would happen once on rides, changed my motors. But the fix for me was shorter phase wires I was being swave and routing them under the truck mount. Not dying wins over fancy cable routing every time.
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For a long time I would use the enertion controllers when they played up I knew to recalibrate before each ride. It was on a group a group ride and brake didnt respond whent I really really needed it. Resulting in decorating the road wild bill style with a lot of leg skin. They live permanently in my parts box now. I mostly run VXs (VX, VX2.1) and a diy ESP32 remote that has controls for my pixel strips and lights. All uart.I have lost confidence in pwm.
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The Mini remote is PWM and super reliable, Iād say better connection then a VX1/2 but the movements seem more precise on the flipsky variant.
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Could you elaborate please?
Its 3-5 posts above that where at high duty cycle the unity emits noise on the PWM signal and causes anything from stuck throttle to braking or increasing speed without input change. I think its an oversaturated 3v/5v rail with traces running close to the PWM signal causing noise but Iām using disney bucks at a caesars palace so 50/50.
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Do those issues affect the original focbox? Or were you just referring to the Focbox Unity as a Focbox and I misunderstood?
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Just the unity.
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I have had some issues with the flipshite remotes but āso farā dropouts are not one them. The VX2.0 had a horrid deadspot/curve you really had to be carefull with your starts. They are far from perfect but until I have enough coin to afford a trampa wand or maytech waterproof itās all I have.
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Iām getting to the point where Iād like to build a board. My main concern is the esc or VESC. Just wondering what I will need to learn about that part of the build. Are there any plug and go units or do all require some set up? If so, what tools will I need besides my trusty volt meter?
Thanks
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They all need some form of setup. Even ādumbā non-vesc ESCs need to have their cell count set, and possibly other things too.
VESC-based ESCs are simply much more advanced, and have more features and settings.
They also go to higher voltages than most cheap ESCs. (those usually top out around 6 or 8s, unless you go for very expensive ones, and at that point why not go with a vesc?) They offer higher system voltages (for the same power, you can use thinner wire) and have multiple input options for different types of remotes, many offer bluetooth comms for live telemetry to your phone, and lots of other great features that you will not find in regular RC ESCs.
- A multimeter is mandatory.
- Soldering skills and a decent soldering station, while not strictly necessary, are extremely useful.
- A good set of hex/allen wrenches is also a good investment. The gold standard is the Wera Hex-Plus series. Yes, they are expensive. Yes, they are absolutely worth every penny.
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FTFY 
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I know peeps are going to hate on meā¦ but considering this is your first build, you can buy a relatively cheep dual 10s chinese ESC with a remoteā¦ performance wise you wonāt be at the top of the heap, but faak itās your first buildā¦ plus youāll have a spare if and when you choose to go to a VESC and it pops on youā¦ zero set-upā¦ plug and play
my 2 centavos
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Thank you @Mysticaldork. I am a little hesitant since there doesnāt seem to be a beginnerās guide to escās. When I read posts It seems most people here already have a working familiarity with esc basics. I donāt even know if I need one or two escās.
I have tools, and I can buy the recommended Allen wrenches and star keys. I can solder and have a work station. I did have some courses in electronics about forty years ago and I have time to play with eskate stuff. Iām also ok with buying and using a diagnostic tool.
Iāll keep reading posts and hopefully learn enough to ask more specific questions.
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