question:
Still deciding between 6374 or 6380 motors. coupla questions here:
if I do the math, running 60 amps, 44.4 volts * 60 amps = 2664 watts. Therefore I wouldnât be close to hitting the potential of the 6374s at about 3000 watts. I think this should be enough amps.
but the FB unity can handle up to 80 amps (in theory) which would be 44.4 * 80 = 3552 watts. Which would mean I should get 6380s because they can handle 4000 watts.
I plan to gear my build with 18T motor and 40T wheel on TB 110 wheels, 190kv. I feel like Iâll want all the power I can get with that tall of a gear ratio.
So, finally; my questions
-Will I be able to safely run 80a on the unity? Or is this fringe from your experience?
-Will I need that much power? Or will 6374s suffice?
-Will the 6380s fit on TB218 trucks with press fit pulleys?
looking for opinions here really, I donât have much experience with high powered ish. pulling 20A per side on my current build @ 10s
Would say if pulling 20A per side now what is limiting factor as is, if you donât need the extra power to get up to speed or hill climb it isnât necessary, but canât hurt to have more overhead either.
The current maximums youâre referencing I assume only last for a brief period of time and the components typically have higher burst capability than sustained since it can bleed off the heat built up in that short period over time.
Doesnât TB sell a kit with motors, wheels, mounts, and trucks? What ever option he has is probably good enough and will save you a little coin as a bundle
You can get the precision trucks, V6 mounts, 6380 motors, and 110 wheels with 15:36 pulleys for $800, Dex will probably replace the 15T with a 16T if you ask nicely
All of it will fit together and 16:36 is the same as 18:40 give or take a couple percent
Or you get the dual mechanical kit with the 110mm wheel, 218mm truck, 15mm belt upgrades then buy the 6374 motor separate for I think $670?
I tried googling the info printed on the bms, but I only found a Chinese website that hasnât been updated since like 2015. And it is just a front end sales site without any data sheets that I have found. you get what you pay for only and info is extra lol.
I am thinking I am just going to replace this bms when I embark on my battery expansion mission since a decent bms for this application wonât be that much anyway. Or I may forget about it entirely until I replace this pack in a few years with a higher quality battery pack, rather than buy another 40 of these meh LG m26 cells.
If my 5amp charger upgrade works as planned then adding capacity wonât be as much of an issue since I should be able to get such a boost in charging time that I am able to get a decent amount of charge during an hour lunch break like I am hoping.
It might also be worth checking with a local auto parts store, since they deal with belts of all flavors already. They might be able to source you one from somewhere.
Iâve had occasion to open up a few mboards batterys⌠one was an in house 10s3p and it was pretty well made, had a cheap ass bms and 30q s⌠the other 2 I happened upon were obviously rebranded DIYboard (Chinese DIY not Dex) and were of marginal quality using cheaper cellsâŚ
Iâm using the ppm connector from the esc to the S, 5v and gnd of the receiver (black white and red), and then single pins from the RX and TX ports of the esc to the receiver (red and orange), and positive of vesc power in to receiver (blue).
But the receiver wonât power on⌠am i missing something?
Edit: I ended up bending the pins because I was lazy. Possible I fucked the receiver? I did it very gently one by one and it seemed fine at the time
i know a guy who got a dead receiver straight out of the box and flipsky will not send a receiver alone. He had to do a paypal claim.