Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics Esk8 Mechanics
#8307

Depends on the gear ratio, torquier drive trains have more resistance

1 Like
#8308

Ratio is a bit random it’s 27:10

It’s reasonably torquey but has absolutely no resistance. I mean it’s great but just want to make sure that’s expected and not going to have my motor blow up

I should add it’s single motor so maybe that also means the little if any resistance is not as noticeable as dual?

#8309

finally got a message back from the seller and he wouldn’t tell me anything, advising to use the supplied charger only “otherwise you might burn out the battery” -__- not impressed with this guy’s lack of electrical knowledge or diy spirit.

Found the board I got on Alibaba after much searching for a bit cheaper so not like he builds them himself.

#8310

That’s normal, backdriving our motors is totally fine, even expected (Guess how our brakes work?).

2 Likes
#8311

I’d just go for it. Worst thing I could plausibly foresee happening is the new charger doesn’t work.

(yes I know, there are edge cases where Bad Things could happen, but it’s not likely on a prebuilt commercial Chinese board.)

1 Like
#8312

I am working on it. I had to stop drilling stuff because it is late so I will finish tomorrow.

But I actually have another question regarding my next idea for upgrade

Here is where the battery pack connects to the esc

0103200207
01032002072160×2880 2.76 MB

Here is my bms which is wired for charge only :slight_smile:

0103200207a
0103200207a2160×2880 1.62 MB

I would like to solder another pair of wires with an xt-60 connector to the original esc connection which I will feed through the housing into a separate housing at the end of my board which will store another battery pack in parallel to the original.

I realize that I will need another bms for the 2nd pack but how should I go about charging the complete system? Should I wire them to be charged separately (with 2 individual chargers simultaneously [seems ridiculous]) or will I be able to create a parallel connection from bms to bms that will charge both batteries simultaneously with 1 charger?

#8313

Is it generally better to solder as much as possible direct or use connectors?

For example: Battery to ESC XT90 or direct connect via solder?

And why one or the other? Assuming solder is a perfect join.

1 Like
#8314

I mean it should definitely have more resistance than if there is no motor, but that sounds like it can be pushed within reason

I have a single motor 10s 13:34 76mm belt and it’s easy to push when if’s dead

1 Like
#8315

I have the new torque board CNC trucks and I’m wondering if anyone has found a longer axle to use?

2 Likes
#8316

You can use a parallel combiner to add an extended range pack, but it MUST be the same voltage (maybe ± 0.05V) as the other pack when you plug it in

I suggest adding a parallel splitter on the charge port so you can charge together, but it will need a separate BMS

You don’t want to exceed the charge current on the base pack, so check the cell
like a 3p 30Q will charge at 9A so 5A is probably fine? Just put a 7A in-line blade fuse in the charge line and check the battery to make sure the wires/connectors/BMs/cells are all still cool

Edit: if one battery is charging you can plug the second into the same charger regardless of voltage, if they are different voltage they cannot be connected to eachother or it will charge the lowest battery (by pulling from the high pack charge port) and possibly damage the battery

#8317

It’s at your discretion, but we usually have an XT at the end of the battery but everything inside the battery is soldered

If you have a harness or port that connects to the enclosure you’ll want a connector on it so the enclosure can be easily separated

And motor phase/sensor wires should have a bullet/jst respectively

Edit: The charge port is usually embedded in the enclosure with a 2 pin JST between it and the battery

1 Like
#8318

I dont think so

#8319

How do you people safely discharge capacitors? (In my case, on a Focbox, before I remove a faulty CAN chip)

#8320

Lick it, should taste like a really spicy 9V battery

7 Likes
#8321

lmao :laughing:

#8322

With a screwdriver really just tap it between the leads is there a problem with doing this? Never noticed one.

#8323

Hmm just read online that using a voltmeter is a good way, as you can see the voltage going down. In my case it showed zero when I connected it to the XT-60, so I guess it was safe to begin with lol

#8324

@BluPenguin @Dareno @ZachTetra thanks guys reached the replies limit on here for a new person last night, but wanted to make sure you guys knew i appreciated your help

4 Likes
#8325

Bumped you up to member so all good now.

No worries.

2 Likes
#8326

You might want to double check the specs on that BMS. I’m fairly confident that particular one does not offer balancing, just cutoff once one or more P groups reaches max voltage. Without balancing your cells may or may not progressively come out of balance. You’ll never know without manually checking all P groups.