There are some on amazon with ~5 day shipping that work well for me. I would post a link but it doesnât allow me.
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I have issues with my unsealed, uncensored motors in the rain. They are like 3x less powerful and brakes are near non-existent (not due to slipping). What might be the cause?
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Bad coating of the board would likely short the whole thing out. Iâm not sure what would cause that to be honest.
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You can look in other places too, since vbeltsupplyâs shipping to AU is probably pretty steep; Just search for â395-5m-15â, that will get you more accurate results.
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Thereâs no way to know for sure, but chances are pretty good that the BMS can handle 5A - Most can handle that easily.
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Whatâs the softest I can go on a set of bushings for a pair of gullwing widewinders? I know the stock is 89a and I was thinking 84a. 120lbs rider and a Landyachtz drophammer deck, not planning to go above 20 mph with it
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yeah it is just small (3inch x 1.5 inch) so I donât know and donât want to pop it and wait for another to come in the mail!
Do I have much to worry about since the bms will only pull as much current as it is able?
as in since I am not over volting it, it wonât have a problem pulling too much power?
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It wonât âpull as much current as it is ableâ (thatâs now how BMSâ work), but the worst that would happen is that it would just shut off and stop charging.
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good enough for me. much thanks
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Not the worst Iâve seen, but far from the best. Looks like only a single (fairly thick) nickel strip for both S and P connections (which will likely get fairly toasty under heavy load), and no insulation between P-groups, which doesnât bode well for long term vibration tolerance.
That BMS is only rated for 40A, so yeah that would definitely cut out and cause a bad day if you tried to pull the full 80A a 10s4p of 30Q cells is capable of if itâs not bypassed for discharge. That said, I donât think I would trust that single nickel (ânickelâ) strip with 80A either.
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Canât tell from that about the single nickel but the pack is not a complete bomb. As Ryan said there is a fair bit wrong but better than I thought. Bms wiring is a spaghetti meatball surprise.
I think the fact that they put a 40amp discharge bms in there tells a story.
Not a fan of tabs for main connections either. That said it is not a disaster. What deck are you using?
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Landyachtz Switchblade (40). Yea idk whats going on with this wiring all over the damn place canât even move the bms out of the way. Gonna rewire this thing to only be charge only but still will keep it to 60A just to be safe. Just to be doubly sure i just need to chop off the connection from the charge port to the P- on the BMS and connect it directly to the battery ?
Thatâs not bad except that there is basically no flex in that battery. If that is going into a fully ridged deck then it might survive for awhile, if the deck has any flex, those nickel bridges will fatigue and break in no time. Even if the deck is solid carbon fiber, the vibration over time will try to rip that pack apart.
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See this distortion on your single nickel connection?
Do not put this pack in a flexible deck. I would not trust that over time.
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Ideally you want the P groups separated and connected with something flexible. 8-10 gauge wire between the P groups instead of nickel would work great. If in the rare case that you are low on space width wise, Try something like this to keep the pack flexible and compact at the same time.
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If you want to have a charge only BMS, youâre gonna want toâŚ
cut the B- and P- leads at the BMS
connect a 14awg to 20awg wire to the B- on the BMS
join all 3 ends together
Current will flow from the battery negative (black wire) to the ESC negative (blue wire). Do not touch the charger negative (yellow wire), it is fine as it is
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@ahrav I used flat tinned copper braid, of equivalent cross section to 10AWG. Works fantastic, and is lower profile than round wire.
I still have a bunch of it - If you decide to try your hand at battery pack upgrades, Iâll send you a chunk for the price of shipping.
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I have Keda 190kv and
MBS 100mm wheels chain driven.
My noob question isâŚmy wheel and motor spin easily whether powered on or not I can basically push it as if it was a normal skateboard without a motor.
Is that normal?