I would probably go with 10s3p with Samsung 25r or 30q cells. That should be fine, capacity and discharge wise. 25r is dirt cheap, 30q offers more capacity if you can afford it (should still be below 100$).
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Does anyone know a good alternative for haggy inner tubings?
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i ride my Kaly 2x at all up weight at right about 180~185lbs I like my boards flexy so was going to order a mediumā¦ but went with the hard version, and so glad I didā¦
flexy, but still way controllable
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Anyone know the mounting hole spacing for @torqueboards 63mm motors?
Planning on getting some but need to know if Iāll need new mounts too.
Iām not the most confident In my motor, and itās shoddy Chinese copper wires (no offense supreme esc god Jeff) and I would like to rewind my motors stator to potentially make it more efficient, and lead with thicker phase wiresā¦ does anyone have any experience in this ordeal, and would it be worth my time?
It depends on the current you run through itā¦Iāve got some hubs that donāt pull more than 20A up hill because they suck so much so the cheap 14awg wires it comes with are no problem, but if you run a motor that pulls like 60A and plan to use that power, youāre gonna want to upgrade
The wire is enamel coated so youāll need to dissolve or abrade it off, I suggest using some fine sand paper to clean the ends, and tin them to make sure all the enamel is gone where you plan to connect the new wires. Just be careful not to melt the enamel on the wires and to protect the solder joint with shrink wrap (not electrical tape) so it doesnāt short
If you measure the resistance between each phase connection before and after the job, youāll know if there is a short somewhere, in which case the motor might be toast but you never know
In terms of rewinding, couldnāt tell youā¦I know @hummieee and @professor_shartsis know too much about motors for their own good though
I was mainly interested in rewindingā¦ but the tips on the lengthening of the wires are very helpful. Thank-you for taking the time to respond
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Lrk winding is easy and then get some high heat epoxy warmed so thin and get it all over.
Iāve gone through details of how to wind too many timesā¦ Iāve lost motivation going through it all again but those are the basics and if u search or have a specific question rcgroups.com is a better place for info on winding
I have a 6384 motor claiming 4600wā¦ so it needs much more power than my current batteries can provideā¦ but I hope to one day rewind it with better copperā¦ but idk, just wanted to get your opinion
Ur not happy w 4600 watts? The motor can likely do much more for burst like all electric motors and thatās a ācontinuousā rating. Bullshit likely unless in the Arctic but u could do it for short bursts at least. And then thereās the esc settings for battery or motor amps and the battery likely isnāt the bottleneck
If you run detection with the VESC Tool it will give you the current rating that it can let the motor draw, it should be around 80a to 90a but if its north of 70a thatās probably all youāll get from a cheap motor
I am happy with it, but Iām seriously doubtful that a 85$ Chinese ebay motor can make that power for a sustained amount of time. I want that power from the motor, but Iām doubtful it can make nearly that much
I dare you to explain it one more time but as a very useful thread.
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So I guess my motors are causing any and all vibration, and transfering it directly into my feet/board. Loose bearing to show that there is a shit load of vibration. You can hear it when I let off the throttle and it slows down and makes the weird noise too (2nd video shows this better). I know this is kind of expected but its weird, anyone else have the problem where their motor vibrates so much, and transfers it all directly to your deck/feet? I honestly think that this amount of vibration and loads of torque is the reason my mounting plates will not stay in place even with red loctite.
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Mine does that too. Not sure what it is.
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I have a bms qustion.
I am putting a new connector on my battery (another evolve one, sorry lol) for the bms but i just realised that the battery has 2 yellow wires, 2 black, 2 green, 2 blue, 2 white, 1 red.
I donāt know what wires leads to what cell/paralell.
Does it matter the order?
On the evolve remote it displays the cell voltage and will give a warning if a cell is not balanced.
Any help apreciated 
Paging battery builders;
@pjotr47 @tinp123 @Acido 
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Those colored wires are balance wires for old bms? If that is true, they have to be in right order for new bms to work properly.
Take your multimeter and find right order of wires. First you have to figure out first and last balance wire. If battery is full, voltage difference between them will be 42V. I would start with red wire, since itās only single color wire and could be battery main positive. When you figure out which two wires are first and last, it should go easy and quick further. Voltage increases by 4.2v between each consecutive group, so you should get 4.2V between 1st and 2nd wire, 8.4v between 1st and 3rd, 12.6v between 1st and 4th and so on, until you finish with last wire and difference of 42v. @longhairedboy did many evolve mods, maybe he has some quicker way of finding wire order
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Connect the multimeter with the negative off the whole pack. Just search the first cell wire with the multimeter. You will find a voltage between 3&4.2v. Search the second cell that is the voltage off the first*2. Etcā¦
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I did not think of that Thank you 
Yes so there is only one red and then it is one of those two blacks
The connector is the original one so the wire colour should match.
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I think i swapped something in my head.
My 4.12hw vesc supports 50A continuous.
Those 50 are battery amps?
If my motor has 90 amps, i can run it at a full 90amps for the battery to just 50a continuous?
Because i Currently limited my Motors amps to 50A
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