Yes, that looks correct.
https://www.bbman.com/belt-length-calculator/ << thatâs the belt length calculator I use.
I got all my belts from https://www.vbeltsupply.com/
Figures it out for unity, unity tool vesc topl copy, same thing.
I was riding and noticed the power is only like 60% what Iâm used to, I looked back and saw my battery meter was at 100% after half mile when usually itâs already at like 75%, I noticed This connector came loose, I plugged it back in restarted board and itâs still showing 100% battery even after I rode it another 1.5 miles. I check and battery meter solders are still in tact. Any ideas on this? Also should add I have a 3dsevisas anti spark inline too.
To give any kind of intelligent answer, we need more information, including but not limited to such details as: What does that connector go to? Whatâs your battery configuraiton? Whatâs your vesc configuration? Is your battery meter set correctly? and many more.
As it stands, your question is equivalent to going to a mechanic and saying âmy car is making a funny sound after I unplugged a thing. Whatâs wrong with it?â
I found some real great looking high-torque APS motors that I really like.
Only 1 issue - Iâm planning on running 12s and theyâre only rated to 10s⌠Has anyone run 10s motors at 12s without issues or is that a stupid idea?
Should be okay, just put an ERPM limit equal to 294 times the KV
Since motors are just dumb sets of copper coils wrapped around steel pole pieces, with magnets around the outside, they are pretty much voltage-agnostic.
Higher voltage gives higher RPM, and higher voltage plus higher KV can lead to exceeding the safe ERPM of the controller.
The main issue is thermal - Higher voltage for a given motor means you can pass more current, which means more power output, but also more power lost as heat. That heat has to go somewhere, and larger motors can store and dissipate more heat than smaller ones.
TLDR, check your KV/ERPM limits, but otherwise you should be fine.
Fault : FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT
Current : 144.7
Current filtered : 140.4
Voltage : 38.89
Duty : 0.005
RPM : 23212.7
Tacho : 798836
Cycles running : 1234
TIM duty : 263
TIM val samp : 131
TIM current samp : 26505
TIM top : 52747
Comm step : 5
Temperature : 51.17
VESC keeps cutting out. It also has DRV error but is still working but cuts out occasionally and feels like I put the brakes on. Seems this is already unsafe to rideâŚhow do you avoid this? Iâm using Flipsky esc.
Day before rode around for 1.5hrs without any problems it went perfectly, next day rode it 10 minutes and it kept trying to throw me off. Checking today and same problem even worse so plugged it in and got the above fault. and below.
Fault : FAULT_CODE_DRV
Current : 156.0
Current filtered : 4.3
Voltage : 38.24
Duty : 0.877
RPM : 49467.8
Tacho : 766022
Cycles running : 56538
TIM duty : 4035
TIM val samp : 2083
TIM current samp : 4385
TIM top : 4603
Comm step : 5
Temperature : 51.17
Iâm happy to have more conservative settings if it means it wont die like this. at present its very powerful anything I should change?
Everything is pretty much default from ackmaniack tool except regen
People donât give reliability enough credit.
Everyone wants bigger and faster and further, but if it doesnât run, it doesnât matter. Any esk8 thatâs not broken is better than any other esk8 that is broken
Which flipsky? If you relax your motor/amp settings does this still occur?
Whatâs your battery/BMS look like?
Have yet to change the settings at all, what should I change specifically? I just took it out again after clearing faults and got these two riding it extremely slowly.
Currently no BMS / battery is 10s
The following faults were registered since start:
Fault : FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT
Current : 14.4
Current filtered : 144.1
Voltage : 39.90
Duty : 0.005
RPM : 9578.4
Tacho : 1294490
Cycles running : 178751
TIM duty : 263
TIM val samp : 131
TIM current samp : 26505
TIM top : 52747
Comm step : 1
Temperature : 51.10
Fault : FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT
Current : 35.0
Current filtered : 139.4
Voltage : 38.82
Duty : 0.005
RPM : 7940.6
Tacho : 1521148
Cycles running : 146516
TIM duty : 271
TIM val samp : 135
TIM current samp : 26467
TIM top : 52664
Comm step : 5
Temperature : 67.78
Those are only good to 50a max, depending on how old the revision you have is, a lot of them had a number of incorrectly specâd components that make them unstable beyond 50a motor.
Is this a dual motor or a single motor setup?
Dang I hope I have not done irreversible damage.
Itâs a single motor
You should be okay, the reason its cutting out is a fault tolerant behavior. It can cause damage but itâs not a 100% type of thing and depends entirely on load and circumstance.
Can you tell me a bit more about your battery? 10S2P/3P? Where did you get it?
I can give you some settings to try if I know what your battery can deliver
That is good to hear!
5 of these in series / 10s2p
So youâve got plenty of battery amps available, more than youâll need to power one motor but your ESC will handle how much current to use.
I would recommend 45 motor amps and 30 battery amps to start with. You might try 50/35-40 motor/battery next. Your reverse current/Regen is fine, and usually to preference of brake responsiveness at high/low speeds.
Let me know if you have any further questions!
Youâre so helpful for a penis butt guy
Thanks for the information.
So does below look better? If itâs lacking in power (as I have hectic hills here) what the max I can really afford to go to without breaking stuff? 50a?
@DerelictRobot main question as you already answered the above really, is do I need to change the âAbsolute Maximum Currentâ or is it fine as is?
Lol yeah I guess thatâs why I was able to ride around for 1.5hrs and still have juice left? Itâs amazing actually.