I believe it was a post by one of our not-so-dearly departed forum members. (s5300 i think? Was that his name?)
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yep, all that got deleted (his choice).
donāt worry mine is going to be way better 
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Yah little to no risk as long as they are the same voltage as mentioned worst case you could stress the cells if drawing too many amps from them or might be leaving acceleration on the table if settings were conservative for the old battery but I donāt think anything is at risk really.
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Rather than using a parallel adapter to connect two VESCs to one battery output, I am going to pull two cables from my pack+ and two from my pack- to two separate XT90s. Im pretty sure that there is no reason I shouldnāt do that, but does anyone know if I am wrong?
Nope no real difference electrically or nothing major Iām aware of doing it that way.
Actually my metro-boards (battery and BMS)came with two xt-60s coming off the BMS after asking them I replaced with a single XT-90 to go to single vesc, but itās mostly the same really better since you donāt have some section of wire taking the full load/current for both ESCs.
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Yeah they both are li-ion.
The 10s3p got a charge/discharge bms soldered on though. So iām not sure how that wouuld play out if i canāt adjust settings on the esc?
Exactly why i was planning to do it this way 
Thanks man!
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No Problem there. I use a custom 10s4p 30q pack on my wowgo 2s + 2x stock 10s2p packs from wowgo.
Your old pack almost certainly has a charge/discharge BMS as well.
To make it simple, your old pack (pack 1) was rated for a certain amount of discharge between a certain window of voltage (for example, 30A continuous between 42v and 30v).
Your new pack (pack 2) is rated for a certain amount of discharge as well. Since they are both Li-Ion, then the voltage window is the same, and that wont be a problem.
What @wafflejock was saying here was talking about the Amp rating of pack 1 vs pack 2. As long as pack 2 is able to safely supply as much or more amps than pack 1, then you have no problem. If your ESC is drawing a max of 30A from pack 1, then you have to make sure that pack 2 can supply 30A continuously (it probably can, but your BMS can also bottleneck this, what cells and what bms are in pack 2?).
If pack 2 can only supply 25A safely (for example) then your ESC will be drawing too much from it (not a good thing). If pack 2 can supply 60A safely, then your ESC will only be drawing half your packās rated current (not a bad thing, just not full performance, like @wafflejock said)
I hope that cleared some things up. Like @xsynatic said, you should not have a problem here.
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ok, i think i understand how balance wires go, maybeā¦
If iām putting a wire on the negative end of each P pack does it matter that the final 2 wires B9 and B10 will be on the same P pack?
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Nope thatās fine, if you think about it B1 or any other balance wire between parallel cells put in series could really be on either parallel set because the voltage is the same (they are directly connected with little resistance from the connecting nickel or wire used, so there will be little voltage drop or difference from one side of that connection or the other).
Side note the diagram seems to show only 10S 2P configuration but is labelled as 10S4P fine if each cell represents two, makes the diagram easier to look at but just wanted to point out itās confusing there arenāt 40 cells pictured only 20.
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Great, thanks for clarifying.
It is a 10s4p double stacked, I tried doing a nice 3D drawing but this way was a lot cleaner to see whatās going on
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Well, today brought good and bad news.
The good news is I no longer have to worry about my motors not playing nice with my unity.
The bad news is I need new motors (One of them got all hot and smoky going up a hill).
So what motors do yāall recommend? And is it worth the cost of a new bms/charger to upgrade to 12s1p from 6s2p(lipo)?
Also, I am becoming very frustrated with my own ineptitude and luck. After this fix, there wonāt be a single component of my board besides my batteries that was on it from the beginningā¦
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Ok thatās both great news and great clarifications thanks a lot.
Both pack are 30qās so i guess that should be allright.
Iāve got one last thing thatās buging me. The battery pack/bms got a charging port/power button rigged to it. But the esc got them too. I donāt think this redundancy as any major downsides beside having to click 2 power buttons. But am i missing something on there?
DIY desease lol
What size you looking for?
it depends on how much you want to spend. If you want a 12s1p of samsung 40t then yes. i would say itās worth it
I have no idea why the hobbywing ESC in your wowgo would have its own charge port. On the DIY side of things, charging is pretty much always done either through the BMS or straight to the pack (usually with a balance charger, sometimes without). I have never heard of a charge port for your battery that is on your ESC, so I cant give you any advice on that one.
As far as the power switches go, thats not as uncommon. Some BMSās have what is called an e-switch that just turns off current flow from the BMS. This is nice because it usually gets rid of the need for an anti-spark. A lot of china ESCs and some DIY (VESC based) ESCs have a power switch as well. This is sometimes a built in anti-spark. Anti-sparks are, in general, not super reliable in the long term.
As far as what to do about all that, I would recommend only using the charge port from your BMS, and using the switch from your BMS as well. You can either leave the switch from the ESC how it is, and just use both switches like you said, or you may be able to just bridge the two switch pins of the ESC so it is always on when there is current from the BMS. That way you only have the one switch from your battery.
Without knowing more about your BMS and ESC, thats really all i can tell you. And most of that is speculation, so take it as you will, and hope that someone smarter than me chimes in 
Dickyho if you need pulleys, just straight off aliexpress if you need cheap
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Iām looking for something in the 63xx range but since Iām using standard calibers I canāt go over 55mm lengthā¦
Also Iām not trying to get a new battery, just connect my existing 2 packs in series rather than parallel. The only cost would be a new bms and charger.
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Then hands down torqueboards 6355.
or i just found these aps 8055 160kv that have 4500W lol