With your most recent diagram, the charging port will work whether the loopkey is in or not.
To make it work only if the loopkey is in (why?), then the wire for the charging port needs to be on the vesc side of the loop key, not the battery side.
Other than that, the main power connections look good. The balance leads lookā¦ ambiguous.
Each 2s pack will have three balance wires coming from it: Positive, negative, and the intermediate (between the two cells). When connecting them in series like this, you have to drop (not use) one wire from each pack except the one on the negative end - That one gets all three. But each of the other packs, you only use the intermediate, and the positive.
This is why I recommend drawing out your individual cells, not just the packs. Itās too easy to get turned around and short something.
Iām not quite sure how to draw out the individual cells and balance cables might need to do some research and come back to that. Not in a rush to incorporate the BMS as itās the highest fire risk so want to get it 100% before attempting. Charging with the balance charger goes ok for now.
I think the colours are incorrect on the diagram ie; it needs to be yellow and red not black and red but yeah I am only just starting to understand those things so I do want a definitive diagram that a few people have given the all clear on before I wire it up for good.
The reason it will only charge when the loop key is plugged in is currently I connect all the batteries in series with 4mm bullet connectors and because of where I am connecting the charge wires (on the bullet connector that is connected to the anti spark (rather then the battery) which then plugs into to battery positive it will only be on when the circuit is completed (as far as I am aware)
I just modified the diagram after looking at the BMS and I think this could be correct as per what you said with the 3 being used on the negative. Being the B- on the BMS before 1,2,3,4,5 etc.
And then the rest I need to check with a multi meter to confirm which is the correct one (I believe itās yellow and red or white and red) that will be used and not black for the remainder.
Iām not clear on exactly what you mean. Iām just going off the diagram youāve got there, and assuming everything is in its assembled state - bullet connectors plugged in. If youāve got the bullet connectors plugged in like the diagram shows, the battery will charge whether the loopkey is in or not, because the charge positive wire goes straight from the port, to the battery. For the loopkey to interrupt the charge wire, it has to be on the other side.
Well I am glad you are reviewing my work! That is spot on which is actually great because I was only trying to avoid touching the battery cables and somehow thought that was affecting charging without it being on! Wow I feel dumb haha
I would have probably plugged the loop key in to charge for some time before realizing I didnāt need to.
While this is still good advice to follow, a lot of BMS have this wire internally and you donāt actually need to run it.
But unless you know that your specific BMS has it, then just hook it up anyway.
Also if the balance wire is smaller than 22AWG then sending all the charge current through it may be a bad idea anyway, though this usually isnāt the case as they are typically 22AWG or larger and charge currents are typically 4A or under
Mine isnāt specifically the Bestech its a cheap ebay one so Iād say if it doesnāt hurt anything to hook it up either way then itās definitely better for me to hook it up.
Thank you for this, itās kind of fried my brain in terms of what I need to do for the BMS but I understand the way the pack and cells are set-up better now for sure.
Iām not sure if Iām interpreting it correctly.
This is the latest diagram which I think is correct (not including the black wires on all of the cells except the first (B-)
Haya and neoone decks have a removable lid with integrated storage and are pretty short.
No issues with belts in the rain really. You can get mounts that allow you to raise or lower your motor cans. If youāre hopping curbs, mount them in the rear.
Generally speaking: the higher the kv, the more suited it is for speed rather than torque. Use the calculator at the top to play around with the effects. Iād read the terminology thread and the intro to diy thread to get a better understanding.
Unity was super easy for me to setup and you can easily conformal coat it extra for added protection. Same with vesc. Unity is better priced but has less active development currently. Either one will be fine for you, the vesc comes with a warranty. Enertion (maker of unity) is going through some shit right now and refunds have beenā¦ Difficult.
Donāt build your own battery. Not trying to be rude at all but based off of the questions asked, I donāt think itās a good idea at this time for you . Play with the calculator again to see range and top speed estimates. 10s will most likely be fine for you unless you love going fast (12s). Depends on what you can fit in your enclosure as well.
If you are a heavier rider, avoid cast trucks and go for a solid cnc truck. Iād rather see you riding some cnc trucks here that are made for specific mounts than struggle with mounts slipping on the round axle profiles of many standard skate trucks. It makes very much a difference, then hit up @RipTideSports for a bushing combination to match your trucks and riding style. It will fine tune your ride more than youād think.
Motors donāt need to be hubs at all. Motors come sealed and unsealed. Unsealed have air holes to run cooler. Sealed have less holes to be more waterproof and run hotter. I run unsealed in the rain and havenāt had issues with the conformal coating that came on my motors (most motors have this already). If youāre planning on riding in the pouring rain, go sealed motors or check out @b264ās build thread about waterproofing his motors.
Iāll take that tipped hat and give you a hug. Welcome my dude.
Ah okay I thought you meant it stopped responding after the ride where it was acting squirrrelly if you were updating firmware and got to that point of no USB response then stlink can help (I think possible the usb bootloader part of the firmware is corrupt).
Hi guys,
So iāve put a first foot into the diy world and iām wondering about 2 things.
Iāve got a wowgo3 at my disposale that i wanted to re-use the hub motors from, for budget reasons on my first build. But i noticed while taking the board appart that it uses MT30-FB connectors with some smallish wires. How much of an hassle would it be to use this with a vesc once i got my hands on one?
Also while i wait for better parts, how smart/dumb would it be for me to juste plug the custom 10s3p battery pack i got from eboardsolutions onto the hobbywing esc instead of the wowgo 10s2p one? Any risks of frying something?
All in all my end point sums up to should i bother with re-using parts from a wowgo3 or should i just sell it to spend the money on a drivetrain/vesc ?
This should not be a problem, so long as both batteries are Li-Ion. If the battery you are replacing is Li-Po and you replace it with Li-Ion, the the voltage cutoff settings in the ESC will be slightly off. As far as I know, the only problem that will cause is that you will not be utilizing all of your available charge, or it might over-discharge slightly.
If they are the same type of battery, you should be fine.
. Play with the calculator again to see range and top speed estimates. 10s will most likely be fine for you unless you love going fast (12s). Depends on what you can fit in your enclosure as well.