From what I understand you need to balance the old cells and the new cells equally. Example, 10s5p you want an equal amount of old and new cells per group, 3 old 2 new each group or however, to avoid draining the groups differently
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No, just a regular hm-10 Bluetooth model
I could understand if it was this my settings would change on both vescs⌠but the module is only plugged into the left vesc, and shares no connection with the right. The only connection they have is the ppm splitter that they use
Super weird Imo.
on another note, front-wheel drive is actually really nice and intuitive except for breaking⌠Thatâs going to take some getting used to
Its got me. That is weird.
Front wheel drive is how I rode my old landwheel everywhere. Great uphill but not in the wet. Crap on wet roads. Also motor lock will have you flying so be careful the things donât decide to change back.
This is pretty obvious but the only way I can see that your motors changed direction is a signal from the receiver. Check the remote if you havenât already for a reverse switch.
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If you mix new and old cells besides aging faster like @wafflejock said and balancing the P groups like @Alpacaslapper said, it will also mean you need to make sure your balance current on your BMS is on the higher side, like 84mA or more. I wouldnât use one of the 42mA balancers. If you can find higher than 84mA, then thatâs better.
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whatâs the difference between continuous and peak amps for motor, vesc and battery? Iâm using TB 12s4p battery which has a 60amp Continous / 150amp Peak BMS and TB VESC 4.12 which have have " * Current: Up to 240A for a few seconds or 50A continuous". I am using mmanerâs wonderful Ackmaniac guide setting up my shiat atm and would like to not fry shit. Do I use continuous or peak values? 240A seems crazy for this VESC. 150A also seems crazy for this battery, no?
the tb vescs don´t do 50A continuesâŚanyway your pack is made out of 30q cells? if yest than your pack can output 80A (4x20A) contiunes, your bms is 60A so i would go with 30A bat max on each vesc. with it you are in all limits and your vescs will not get too hot as well.
always look at contiues values with a bit a sceptical eye.
not everything what is written or advertised is also working like that in real life conditions.
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Everything comes from the battery man. Thats your absolute starting point. What that battery can deliver continuously. Forget peak. Thats just a number where settings are concerned. All it is. 30q are rated officially as a 15 amp discharge cell so hence the 60 amp bms. We know that those cells can safely deliver 20 amps continuously so in this instance your bms is a bottle neck. No dramas just so long as you know that and donât exceed those values. 60 amp battery max is your limit on that pack. Battery amps are power at speed. Motor amps are low down power and thats what you want. Check the manufacturers motor max stated amps (continous) and play with those values according to heat until you get the ride you want.
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What is an acceptable motor temp? It it internal winding temp or if I hit it with a laser on the outside reasonable if I donât have a motor with temp capabilities?
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With an outrunner motor (The type commonly used in esk8), the entire outer can spins, so itâs not well-coupled to the stationary windings thermally. This is a good thing, because the magnets in the can canât handle as much heat as the windings. The can should not exceed 80c but the windings can usually handle up to 180c. (this is still pushing the motor pretty hard, and if you get the windings up close to 180 in still air, you risk cooking the magnets - they start losing their oomph around 80c.
Unless youâre doing something ridiculous to your motors, you should be able to keep your temperatures well below 80 and 180c for can and windings respectively. I usually set my motor thermal protection at 100-110c or so when measured at the windings.
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Ok thanks, Iâm not pushing anything hard at all, I just like to learn everything I can. I have an open motor so Iâll shoot through the opening to the motor to the windings just for fun, my motor doesnât get uncomfortably warm to the touch even.
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Help
Nano x, and my vescs are both set to âcurrent break with no reverseâ or whatever its called⌠I would assume that makes it impossible for my remote to reverse the direction
Iâm finding I lose some traction on my front wheels when going any direction other than completely straight. Kind of unfortunate :s
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Is it front wheel drive?
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It is now⌠Lol
It was rwd last time I configured the vescs
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Worth checking. The nano has a reverse button so I would assume the x does too. I used mine for exactly ten minutes and ripped its cold nasty heart out of my rig.
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Anyone fancy with an eBay link, for 10mm washers? I really canât find those.
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I have been looking for the same. There are plenty for 1 mm thickness or greater but I wanted thinner. I just requested a quote from these guys for 10.3 mm ID stainless steel washers. 1/4 and 1/2 mm thick. Weâll see how the price looks.
https://www.superiorwasher.com/category.jhtm?cid=141
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I get the hate, but my nanox has been spot on
No dropouts, no funny signals ( even in the heart of my town which made every other remote spaz out)⌠Nothing
Maybe I just got really lucky 
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