Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

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What’s this error cant see it in the video

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Did you run the Print Fault directly after trying motor detection?

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I did, in the red it says bad detection results received.

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Can you switch motors and run motor detection again on both ESC’s? That way, you can narrow down if the issue might be related to the ESC or the motor.

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I did it with 4 motors in total…

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It can be done that way, but most hobby balance chargers charge through the main wires, and only balance through the JST connector - the JST will only handle maybe a couple amps per pin, and many hobby chargers can charge at five amps or more. The balancing process only involves at most a few hundred mA.

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alright alright. Don’t stress yourself about it. I won’t die if i don’t have it tomorrow. Take your time.

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so the only negative effect would be it takes a lot longer to charge?

Yes, but.

If you can get your balance charger to work that way, it’ll work just fine, and the only real downside is the limited charge current, and thus the longer charge time. But most balance chargers, won’t charge a pack unless the main power wires are connected. The balance port can’t supply power, only drain it.

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Is there a rule of thumb to get the batteries near store voltage without a balance charger? Maybe half loaded or somesthing?
Would 75 - 80% charge be okey? (li ion batteries in this case)

The ones I linked have tubes only as an option or tire and tube. Not that you asked me…

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If you have metr check the updates thread recent one about discharge using the motor to bleed off power as heat. Other option is just resistor/bulb that can bleed off the heat but would want to monitor the cells to know when to cut it off and need to be sure the wattage is high enough that the resistor/bulb doesn’t just melt. Basically if you have a 200Wh battery and you hook it up to a light bulb drawing 100W you could run the light for 2 hrs before the battery is empty, if you leave it for 1hr going down from a full charge it should end up at 50% or so.

Also from what I gather cells don’t need to be right in the middle anything below really full is going to be better for storage than really full. Imagine it’s a balloon being filled with air if you store it completely full of air it will degrade the rubber and stretch it more over time, obviously not physically the same thing but think it is roughly equivalent in terms of wear.

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There is virtually no self-discharge below about 4.0V at 20°C (68°F); storing at 3.7V yields amazing longevity for most Li-ion systems. Finding the exact 40–50 percent SoC level to store Li-ion is not that important. At 40 percent charge, most Li-ion has an OCV of 3.82V/cell at room temperature. To get the correct reading after a charge or discharge, rest the battery for 90 minutes before taking the reading. If this is not practical, overshoot the discharge voltage by 50mV or go 50mV higher on charge. This means discharging to 3.77V/cell or charging to 3.87V/cell at a C-rate of 1C or less. The rubber band effect will settle the voltage at roughly 3.82V. Figure 1 shows the typical discharge voltage of a Li-ion battery.
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Figure 1: Discharge voltage as a function of state-of-charge . Battery SoC is reflected in OCV. Lithium manganese oxide reads 3.82V at 40% SoC (25°C), and about 3.70V at 30% (shipping requirement). Temperature and previous charge and discharge activities affect the reading. Allow the battery to rest for 90 minutes before taking the reading.

Source: https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_store_batteries

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@wafflejock @webst Thank you for your precise explainations.

@Trampa do you sell beast box’s without any holes in the panels? it would be awesome to have a box that is not just meant for the vesc 6+. I would like a beast box that has no holes so i can drill into the carbon fibre to make holes for my needs. Is this possible?

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I will send an F360 file so you can tweak the bits that hold the screws perfectly. I have to do some sanding and then it snapped in and screws aint going anywhere. Happy Thanksgiving!

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That looks dope! Thanks in advance.

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machinist, engineer type design question…

I’ve got existing wheel/hub adapters that I want to send to a machinist to modify to add replaceable press in skateboard bearings nominal 22mm dia. what tolerance should I specify the inside diameter that will be robust, allow replacement of the bearing and not be so tight as to restrict free bearing rotation?

thanks

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Class 1-5 mechanical tolerance is what you’re after, probably class 3 or 4. This table will tell you dimensional tolerances.

https://www.engineersedge.com/general_tolerances.htm

Note this is for holes and pegs, if you’re after bolts and screws look up ISO standard tolerances.

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most excellent my friend!
Thanks

now I just need to figure out the external diameter manufacturing tolerance on a skateboard bearing shell!