Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

No mabe 5% less range in reality

If 2 motors do the work In stead of 1 there only doing 1/2 each so use 1/2 the watts each

Unless thay both go at full power then that would do it in 1/2 the time

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Yes a DieBieMS talks to a VESC over Can bus. VESC talks to a MetroPro over UTAR and the MetroPro talks to a phone app over Bluetooth lets you see the cell voltage from a DieBieMS

Just installed one mine looks like this need to cycle it to sort out the %

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Not about part performance. Availability, customer support, business reputation. They all factor in to purchasing decisions

@MysticalDork i have a slight doubt,
i bought this as flux. Does this work for our usage in the esk8 world?
https://www.amazon.com/LA-CO-Regular-Soldering-Flux-Paste/dp/B079W66S7Z

Is it normal that my master side accelerate the motor more than the slave side? (using 2 focbox) and a Flipsky Vx1, the master side always seems to get more power. I know itā€™s not a belt tension problem as both belt tension feels similar, and when I tried to use the cruise control unloaded, one side just stopped slowly while my master side kept on going.

Iā€™m sticking with it depends :smiley:

@olsyke

^^ pretty good write up about different options and types of wear and failure for various gear types

Personally I just think that using gear drives leaves you very little wiggle room for if things shift ever so slightly and I just donā€™t see the big benefit over a belt drive (aside from the oooh ahhh that looks cool factor)

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Are both programmed with the same settings? Maybe one has a loose power connection; sounds very odd, thatā€™s not right.

Continuing the drama, i managed to update the FW and the red light is actually off! But that side doesnā€™t do motor detection anymore, what is up with that?

I guess they are? When I programmed them I just plugged the USB in one as the other must have got the data over the canbus?


I made a video here. I donā€™t know if this is ā€œnormalā€? I accelerated a bit at the beginning, both were turning, then I only push the trigger forward just a little, the master side turns, and then I tried cruise control, where the slave side would gradually loose speed for some reason.

I notice a big jolt like jump when accelerating to a certain point.

So the acceleration curve is really smooth until it hits a certain duty cycle, once it hits that point the speed goes up significantly. Like shifting gears.

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Sensor erpm cut off?

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Thatā€¦could be possible? Iā€™m running sensored hybrid so that fits. Not quite sure what my cutoff is. Iā€™ll have a look.

Is the jump at a certain speed or certain point on the throttle?

I think sensor can have a lower ramp up speed so itā€™ll dump more power after a certain speed if you have it configured like that

Might also be the erpm throttle point, if you have that set low itā€™ll have a relatively weak top end

Havenā€™t measured the speed but itā€™s around half the throttle. 20kmh+ minimum iā€™d say.

@MysticalDork what is the difference between leaded flux and unleaded?

Ah, with the new vesc tool that might be true. I would still double check just to be sure ā€“ plug USB cable in, and use the vesc tool to read the set config.

Another guess would be that 1 belt is tighter than the other, which is why it requires more power to spin that wheel up, but that doesnā€™t explain it coming to a stop in cruise control.

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So far as I know flux itself wonā€™t have lead in it or be ā€œleadedā€. Solder is broadly ā€œleadedā€ or ā€œunleadedā€ meaning it either has lead in it or it is just tin and other metals that make up the alloy but is ā€œlead freeā€. For products to be RoHS compliant pretty sure they must be lead free. Adding lead to the solder metal lowers the melting point so it makes it easier to flow under temp but more malleable overall. The different mixes are labelled as 60/40 or 70/30 or 63/37 to indicate the mix of tin to lead in the solder. Personally use ā€˜rosin coreā€™, leaded, solder, the rosin core is basically flux built into the solder and doesnā€™t normally require additional flux (still good to have a flux pen I think since easy to dab it on spots to help things flow when being a pain). More detailed answer here:

Believe in the link you had to flux it was just saying the flux can work with leaded or unleaded solders.

Flux in general helps by keeping the surface of the metal clean of an oxide layer that would stop the metal from flowing.

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Would this technically be correct? ( connecting 2x 6s lipos in series to a BMS) Layout is not in a particular order right now.