Ahh. 10char
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Yah apparently lower limit here but also can get around it with ** bold
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There are about ten ways I know of to get around it, but youāll have to figure most of them out for yourself. Unless Shaun spills the beans 
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quick questionā¦
given everything is set up right, how long do gears in geardrives usually live before the teeth wear off ?
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Mine lived for one ride
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what happened 
I use the integrated one. Plenty of range. As long as you donāt put it in a faraday cage or plan to use it 50 meters away, the integrated one is enough.
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Thank you!
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Thousands of miles.
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As with everything the answer is it dependsā¦ Depends on the materials the alignment the rider and ride conditions etc etc I donāt think you can say anything broadly about them with regard to wear without talking particular parts and setups.
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He saidā¦
Assuming all of the gear drives in common use, and setup properly, I think we can assume thousands of miles as a basic value.
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Yeah thatās what Iām going to do. Iām also running 2 of these.
Look at the Flipsky site got crazy deals
Bad detection motor
Any settings I should change here? I tried it with 300 /150/ 3000/ 500 on the ERPM and it all makes the motor move slightly more or less.
Use high strength (class 10.9, 12.9 or equivalent/better) fasteners (most of the fasteners that come with knockoff chinese stuff are made of cheese, not steel), and get yourself a set of Wera Hex-Plus allen keys. Yes they are expensive compared to others that look similar. Yes, they are actually different and worth it.
Also use socket-cap screws in place of button-head screws wherever possible - the hex drive is larger for the same thread size.
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Could I expect 50% less range with a dual motor setup, or does the extra torque compensate for that?
Bench testing is never a good way to find out things.
Smart reverse works via duty cycle and creates a slow movement with high torque (unless you change settings). The VX1 remote could randomly send a positive signal on full brake. This is how it looks like to me. If that is the case, the remote should not be used any longer. You can look at the PPM signal in VESC-Tool and then try to replicate a positive signal on full brake.
Why your ESCs have CAN issues is a hard question to answer. It is third party HW that I donāt know in detail. Could be hardware related CAN issues.
You can always configure each unit separately (e.g. unplug CAN cabel), give them a CAN ID after config and activate CAN forward on the master. If you re-run the wizard at alter stage, the master ESC will automatically give new IDs to each unit and will try to set up the pair of ESCs. Once the system works, the update via Wizard should be seamless.
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I am having vocabulary problems lol
A DieBms is a smart bms right?
you can see all your cell % on an app?
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Yes but itās a specific one. It was made by a member of the community and is an open source BMS as well.
There are other smart bms out there as well
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