Yeah there are a few out there, I want to be able to adjust the angle of my motors.
Gotcha. Only ones that are explicitly made for the evolve BCD and allow angle adjustment are from custom fabricators that donât have them listed right now. Might hit one of them up or you could also just file out the holes on an evolve style mount for some slidey action.
If you limit the erpm you will effectively limit the top speed, so long as you donât change the amperage you wonât change the torque.
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Whatâs a good range for 10s2p if i also want the batteries to last and range isnât an issus
If you have 10S 2P you have 20 cells if each cell is 2.5Ah you have 20 x 2.5 x 3.6V = 180Wh. With urethane wheels you can expect to get on avg 1km per 10Wh, so for the entire battery should expect about 18km or about 11 miles. With pneumatic wheels should expect about half the range, personally get better than average efficiency because I am light weight and very flat land around me in general.
I have no idea, Iâm getting around 20 km from 12s8p on pneumatic tires,but Iâm quite big and heavy and there is snow here so Iâm spending about 30-35 wh/km
Is this safe?
Electrical tape
Planning to add more/neaten it up but want to make sure this isnt a cardinal sin.
You will get shit for not using kapton tape xD
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Fair, I have to re-think it anyway as the extra height is too much for the enclosure 
These are the correct ones.
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Are these bms wires looking correct? Does it matter whixh end i use the one with the 3 cables (black wire)
I ask because I cut it too shirt I do have an extension but if it doesnât matter it would be easier to use at the opposite end.
As in does it matter which balance cable that has the 3 wires gets plugged into can I plug it into either or does it specifically have to be the one end?
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First, a distinction between a standalone soldering iron, and a soldering station.
A soldering iron is generally dumb - Just a resistor across the voltage supply. You plug it in, it draws X number of watts, and the temperature it reaches is directly dependent on the power and size - more power makes it hotter, larger size dissipates more heat and makes it cooler. Thatâs why higher wattage soldering irons are also larger.
Soldering stations, on the other hand, have a brain of some type that controls the power. The most rudimentary ones are basically just a light dimmer with a knob that you can adjust. More advanced ones have a temperature sensor built in, so you can set it for exactly 235 degrees for example, and it will vary the power to keep the tip that temperature, no matter what itâs doing. Thatâs how you can have a small tip, with an 80 watt power rating: It can turn the power down to keep from overheating.
Now as for those two irons: The KSGER one is available with a nicer (in my opinion) handle, which allows you to swap the tips without having to unscrew a thing. The grip-to-tip distance is also shorter, which I like more for fine control.
Make sure you get an appropriate tip for the work youâre trying to do. A thin knife/needle tip wonât do squat for heavy duty joints and thick wire, and a big fat wedge will be a pain for doing small delicate stuff. The tips are available singly or in variety packs.
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First attempt soldering onto a fuse. Thoughts?
Thanks to this forum I think even with my shitty iron my soldering is getting alot better.
Tip for any noobs: one thing I have figured out and was making my life way harder we skimping on the solder after reading/watching some tutorials and changing that one thing itâs becoming wayyy easier. Also keeping the tip clean is huge.
Decided to fix this now hope itâs not too late. Is this coloration going to be an issue?
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What has the least resistance? Iâm assuming low voltage, high kv, low gear ratio
Hey @b264 if I put 2 unityâs in a board 1 for each motor and have a receiver for each does that count for redundancy? Lol.
Cause Im seriously considering doing it.
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Nah, thatâs just flux or something on the edge of the PCB. Wonât affect anything.
The fuse looks OK. Plenty of solder, good wet-out.
Just like many things, once you get good at soldering, you can do good work with subpar tools. It just takes more effort.
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Thatâs such an awesome question that Iâm not even gonna answer that⌠but I suspect that question will become more and more frequent as âdualâ ESCs start aging
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I know some may hate to say it but the unity is really reliable, Some people put theres through hell and see no issues.(The only ones Ive seen broken are due to other factors like water damage and reverse polarity) I cant imagine what 2 would be like 
I guess Ill try it for science.
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I hope itâs solid now, but do recall some pretty heated threads about people eating crap because of high speed cut outs and other mishaps so isnât like itâs bullet proof. That said itâs sort of a moot point if enertion continues to move away from the diy community I think, but guess time will tell. Guess get em while theyâre hot and still a product but donât expect support 
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That was due to software issues, but the hardware is solid as far as I can tell.
Like Ernesto/kaly told me. I use high quality shit in my boards and the unity, well thats high quality shit.
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