Iāve been snowboarding for 15+ years and built my first esk8 this summer, never skateboarded before that. I found that keeping your CoM on the forward half of the board helps the most. Itās a bit hard to find the right spot at first but once you lean forward and hunker down a bit you can get a similar feeling to snowboarding and kind of steer with your back foot like a rudder while keeping your weight on your front foot. Coming from a snowboarding background Iāve also found that the lenght of the deck / wheelbase plays a significant role in getting that familiar feeling, longer is better but too long and you wont be able to turn too well.
One sensored motor works a treat if you are not a big heavy bastard like me. The sensored one will give the other the orientation it needs to roll in the right direction so will minimise cogging on the unsensored one. Put it this way one of my sensored boards had the cable come out on one side and I didnāt notice it till I hit a big incline but as I said I am a big heavy bastard.
And you still get a shit ESC
What size fuse to get for bms charge only between the charge port and baterries?
I gather it just has to be over 2a?
Doesnāt really matter. Take your charger amperage add 20%-50% and round up to the nearest value.
Approximately double the maximum current you will charge at.
I use 7.5A 58V fuses for 4A max charging or 5A for 2A max charging
I pulled it really hard as I was planning to redo it anyway and it didnāt come off. So Iām planning to leave it?
My iron is a cheap one so canāt set the temp. I do think Iām only just getting by with it but at this stage donāt want to buy a better one.
Itās the 3rd cheap one so yeah false economy proof right here shouldāve just got a good one to start with.
(I tried 3 different brand cheap ones and the current one is the best out of them - for science)
As long as it survives a hefty tug, itāll be fine. Tug test everything on an EV - Donāt want stuff to crap out while rolling.
There are some pretty great soldering irons/stations available now for very reasonable prices - Anything with cartridge style tips gets major kudos - Probably the cheapest option is one of those Chinese T12 style stations, which can be had for as little as $45-50.
Thanks for the info, still so hard to see why a soldering iron is or isnt going to be good like what to look for.
What makes this one
Better than this one?
3 types I saw in-store today had different W range and prices but the only notable difference was the most expensive and highest wattage was just alot bigger but arguably more inconvenient for working with small electronics
I have this charge port but Iām not sure how to wire it.
Thereās a pin for positive, negative and the third pin is a sense pin to detect if something is connected.
With the multimeter on continuity mode, I touched the inside probe to the three pins on the back and found thereās continuity between the inside pin and the left pin on the photo. What does this mean other than that thereās a connection between the two?. Which terminals/pins are positive and negative?
have you checked out the ts100 iron ?
i use it on everything, can be a bit slow on the big stuff(large groundplanes) but for smaller stuff its awesome
i love my ts100 with the new fw itās awesome.
If anyone is in the same situation with this model charge port.
Positive goes to pin on the left
Negative goes to top pin
Hi all. I have a qweation. Today I took the first ride. But i think i make 9 km. And my battery Ʈs low. Why?? . My setap Ʈs. 12s 4p. Battery. Bestech 140 bms. fsesc 6.6 plus. And this Ʈs The settings what i use.
Motor max 100
Motor min -60
Battery max 30A
Battery min - 12A
Cutoff start 42V
Cutoff end 40 v
Thatās a pretty high cutoff value. Iād go 39/38.
Can you verify your charge level before and after the ride for us?
Also your voltage cutoffs seem off to me. Oops. Mike wins.
