Someone might, but it may take a while for them to see your post 
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100A a motor is $$$$. Also unnecessary for 99% of applications. If you buy that Flipsky ESC (FSESC) to run 100 battery amps a motor, youāll end up spending more than double when you buy another esc after it pops, guaranteed.
The Maytech 100A single is also not good for 100A. More like 45 from what Iāve read, and Iām personally running one @ 35 because I want it to last and itās only pushing a 5065 anyway.
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So what should I get then if my motors are rated for max 90A? Is a 50A vesc enough?
The motor rating is āmotor ampsā or low-speed power and the ESC rating is ābattery ampsā or high-speed power. These are distinct numbers.
You could run a ā90A motorā at ā90A / 45Aā with a ā45A ESCā because the numbers are different things.
One is the current draw on the red and black wires entering the ESC (battery max) and the other is the current in the three phase wires exiting the ESC (motor max).
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Ahhhhā¦ It seems I have dramatically misinterpreted what all these numbers mean lol.
So a 50A flipsky or maytech vesc would work fine? Also is 6.6 preferred over 4.12?
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6.6 is preferred over 4.x. Not just for robustness (4.x tend to have DRV errors more often, especially at higher voltage like 12S) but also in thermal performance: the stock 4.x vescs with no additional heatsink tend to overheat and thermal throttle pretty quickly under heavt load, for example climbing a long hill. The 6.x ones tend to have at least a heat spreader, or sometimes a heatsink, which really helps with sustained performance.
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Many people have difficulty coming into the hobby understanding which numbers are requirements and which ones are hard limits and which ones are soft limits (like the amperage where it depends how many amps for how long really because it depends on how quickly that heat builds up or can be dissipated). You wouldnāt want to allow more current to flow through the coils in the motor than itās rated for and you want the battery to be able to supply enough amps for your load ideally, the load is the BLDC motor which has energy flowing into the coils in a signal of sinusoidal (FOC) or trapezoidal signals (BLDC), the duty cycle goes up as the speed goes up until the ESC peaks out (around 95% duty cycle Iāve heard with vesc). In the vesc you configure the limits for what your battery and your motor can handle and can artificially limit the acceleration/torque by limiting the motor amps. There are more thorough detailed discussions about this if you search around a bit about FOC and BLDC.
For some folks, this is clean transportation, not a hobby.
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I think thatās literally just you Brian 
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No, itās someone else as well
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Someone has to be the first person to stand up and say weāre ready to be big boys and work on our pollution problem. The kids will not think kindly of you if you sabotage their lives. āJust because everyone else is doing itā people say is a good reason to. I officially disagree.
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Iāmma poll it, if I could figure out how to make one lol
There we go I got it now
Thereās nothing bad about dual escs
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Except that when one side breaks, you canāt saw it in half and replace the broken side. And it may bring down the other half when it fails.
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Iāve broken zero unities and I run them at completely full settings, plus thereās no decent single escs on the market. The maytech ones are 
, and the others are flipsky lol
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There are used good ones to be had, and a bunch of folks are working on new ones right now.
And if youāre wealthy thereās always the VESC6. For the rest of us, I have not once seen a used one for sale. Ever.
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I donāt think anyone has every got a vesc 6 lol, but they have their fair share of problems too. And reccomending people find a rare focbox or wait for untested ānewā stuff isnāt a good reccomend. Fact is the unity is accessible itās easy and it works amazingly well for new builders and old
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Fair enough, but risk is high.
Seeing as there is a huge vacuum in the market right now though, itās hard to recommend something else.
Anything single, really.