If next year build would wait till next year to figure out your parts list really. The trucks wheels motors and deck probably wonât change much in the next year but ESCs and opinions of them are constantly evolving and torqueboards will have their vesc 6 variant out in the wild for a while by then and may be a better option (time will tell). Regarding dual vs single you can get plenty of torque with single drive if you arenât doing a lot of hill climbing and it is less of everything in terms of cost, complexity and things that can and will eventually break, but if you need the extra power for hilly area I could understand (I live in almost 100% flat land so it isnât worth it to me to have the extra parts⌠At least for now).
Same with batteries the best cell today isnât likely the best cell price to performance wise a year from now so a bit hard to make that call a year ahead of time.
That said good to start collecting parts a month or two before you plan to build especially since there are often delays on getting orders and donât want to spend your summer waiting for parts.
How much more powerful is the 75kv direct drive than the 90kv, is there a big difference?
Torque varies based on rpm but assuming same current flow through the motors the torque is inversely related to kv and proportionally related to amperage. Based on some rough calculating it should be about 20% more torque.
Do I need any other parts for the build?
Figure out charger or BMS option. Get a helmet doesnât matter how good you are something can come loose and you eat shit, it just happens.
Should I get the flipsky vx1 or vx2, is the screen worth 50$?
Dunno I donât trust flipsky myself but get a metr module for Bluetooth telemetry and records PPM so can tell if remote or receiver or something faulting on vesc if something acts weird (I made my own remote and receiver)
Would it be better if I went for a dual 6374/6380? More powerful? If so should I get the TB 6374 or 6380?
Sure double power but double things that can break, cost and complexity of build, if first build strongly lean towards one big ass motor over 2.
After re-assembling the motor any weird sounds are gone, and it turns out the drivetrain was just loud because of the idler bearings being crap. Problem solved kinda
Canât really comment on the direct drives vs belt in terms of noise but FOC mode is quieter than BLDC (FOC is generally really quiet, BLDC has a louder whine to it, vibration of other components is likely to make more noise than the drive system though). Regarding power you can have a lot of power in a single motor vs little power in a two motors, and can have a single high quality vesc vs a lower quality cheaper vesc variant but itâs all trade offs. My point was more that more components=more points of failure and itâs worth it if you need it and are getting quality components but I think less good (more expensive) components > more (cheap) bad components.
The advantage with dual drive is less stress per component since you are distributing the force and more consistent acceleration and braking since you have power on both sides of the board instead of asymmetric power on one side. But yah if it only takes 800W to get you up to speed then having 4000W available doesnât really do you much good.
If you want higher top speed or more torque you can change gearing with belt setups to some degree, with direct drive the motor is going to be getting more of the direct vibrations/impacts from the wheel, but with belt drive the belt can break if tension is too high or teeth can strip if tension is too low and belt slips, so again all trade offs.
Iâve never even tried Direct Drive, but if I was building my first esk8 and had the budget for it, I would choose DD without hesitation. Why? Because with direct drive you donât need to have the knowledge or experience about:
What pulley ratios to pick
What type of wheel pulley to get + compatibility with trucks
What belt size to get, how much to tension it
How to route the motor wires so that they donât get in the way
How to assemble the drive properly and mount it securely
Well itâs not as though you donât need to understand torque or how wheel diameter and motor kv and voltage effect the end speed and all, really most of the stuff you still need to know (look at thread with someone trying to put AT wheels on DD for example of how not knowing will go wrong even with DD )
I think if using stuff from torqueboards a lot of those concerns are handled by them/him honestly. The motor mount is solid, the routing wires issue is a problem you have to deal with no matter what youâre putting the battery and ESC on there, the torquboards stuff comes with loctite already on it and nyloc nuts for securing the motor mount screws (needed my old ones backed out). Lots of lessons learned already baked into the product they are shipping though and I think skipping on knowing things or learning lessons isnât a good reason, there will be issues regardless.
If the question is gear vs dd I would probably say dd but think belts are the easiest/most proven option with some flexibility.
Looking at that photo, Iâd say your magnets are touching the stator - You can see the wear pattern on each magnet.
Can you wiggle the can at all while itâs installed on the motor?
The longer motors (6374, 6380, etc) tend to do this more commonly than others because the can is only supported on one end. Itâs like a big floppy lever, and any impact or imbalance can throw the whole thing out of whack.
Thatâs why the SK3 6374, SK8 6374, MT6880, and RTS5095 motors are so great in my opinion: Theyâve got a skirt bearing to support the normally unsupported can end, which makes the motor far more robust.
Omg youâre totally right, I wonder if I missed that because the flash highlighted it, or if Iâm just dumb. (I guess I just wasnât looking for that.) Thanks for giving a list of motors that have the additional support bearing, I wasnât aware the SKs had it; makes sense now why theyâre so popular
Recently my right belt makes the typical(?) belt slip cracking sound when i brake a bit harder. Its been 800km since the last adjustment so i did that but it still appears.
I made a short video but its barely audible though the wind. I included a timestamp.
Is that actually the belt slipping? and if not what is it then?
The first one sounded like a skip to me, but the latter is the belt stretching a bit I believe. I had the same sounds on my board, but I could never feel it skipping.
Thatâs exactly what I hear when a kevlar strip has broken inside the belt, and the belt is imminent to failure. Change it immediately and see if the problem disappears.
I can feel it each time. Iâll try again when its dry outside.
@b264 well good call. Iâll try to replicate it first in a controlled environment and then swap it to a different one.
What i also hear though on the left one is a really fine and rather high pitched sound. Not sure if you ever heard a single stand of winding rub against magnet when its turning (video example here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86t1aBjTzhc )
Image that sound in a finer, lighter, faster and not so clicky kind of way when accelerating.
Its really hard to explain that kind of sound. Its like a single/a few strands of fiber of the belt for example are hitting something. The belt looks okay, so no extensive seperation of fibers.
Thats one reason i dislike belt drive sometimes. There is always something thats not supposed to be there ( in my case atleast)
Enclosure - try and get a fiberglass one
Enclosure hardware
Skateboard hardware
A good soldering iron setup,heat gun, helping hands, wire cutters,wire strippers
Bunch of silicon wires
Bunch of spare connectors
Youâll need things to reduce vibrations inside the board
Charger
Tape - Kapton, fiberglass tape
Waterproofing items
They are the same power, but the 75KV has moretorque and lessspeed. Think of it like a car: Same engine, but yourâre either in first gear or second. One will launch harder, but the other will end up going faster.
You should buy extra bullets, connectors, wire, and heat shrink tube - Never know when youâll need to replace or rewire something. Donât forget your enclosure, and the requisite hardware for attaching it to the deck. Donât forget to get some kind of antispark solution, either a good olâ XT90-S loopkey, or an electronic thing. (I recommend a loopkey)
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