I have a Hoyt St. puck, not a mini remote. There are four buttons. Power, Mode, Reverse, and a fourth button that toggles that is essentially undocumented. I have to say the documentation on the remote is basically non-existent. There is a YouTube video that shows how to pair it and briefly explains what each button does. They talk about the center point of the toggle button in the video but donāt say what the button is for.
I havenāt found anything that explains how to set the failsafe. There is no ābind keyā. You press three buttons at once to bind.
Show a screenshot of the same screen Iām showing when at idle with the transmitter (TX) on and when you shut off the remote and motors are running can tell you particularly what to change in there then or if it looks completely wackadoodle and needs mfg assistance/correction.
My idle and TX off screenshots look exactly the same in that view because I programmed my TX and receiver (RX) to be sure they are sending the same mid-stick value in both of those situations. If your receiver āidleā is configured just a bit too high (the presumption here) then increase in deadband will help. If the RX idle when the TX is disconnected is vastly different then this is something that should be changed in the receiver itself (mfg problem most likely).
I will leave the XT90S loopkey in with the switch. Power on the switch, then put the loopkey in to prevent any rush current. I could still use the switch to power off that way.
I think maybe your PPM dead band or Neutral Zone is messed up. Hereās what I found.
When the remote loses the connection the ESC immediately switches to the defined timeout current, after the defined timeout. That timeout current is most likely 1000ms (1s). Hereās how you set those values.
Using the Ackmaniac ESC-Tool, go to App Settings > General. On this screen, the timeout and timeout brake current are defined. I suggest leaving them at default values (100ms & 0.00a).
Next, go to App Settings > PPM > Mapping. While connected to the VESC (top button on the right icon menu) enable Realtime Updates App (the green highlighted button shown below).
(I rotated it 90 deg CCW to save space)
Now when you push and pull the trigger you should live data in the PPM Pulselength Mapping window.
Maybe someone could point me to the right thread related to VESC enclosures? I searched around this forum but couldnāt seem to find much.
Iām currently using this:
Itās not bad, and it fits on my board well, but I had to gut the insides to fit my VESC and cables. I sealed up the bottom with silicone, and the heat sync now has nothing to dissipate heat to.
Can you weld to the negative rim on the positive end of a cell? You could theoretically make batteries more compact and easy to wire, and there shouldnāt be any active material at that end
Is there some kind of differential to run 2 Wheels by only one motor?
Could imagine when there is something like that, it would be for belt or gear drive.
Yes, itās possible - In fact, the Tesla model 3ās battery pack is made this way - all the cells are oriented positive-side-up, and the bottoms of the cells are in contact with a cooling plate, while all the electrical connections are on the top end.
Greatly speeds up and simplifies the pack-assembly process, which is important when there are over 4400 cells in each battery - no need to flip the pack over to do connections on both sides.
I got a Unity running sensored FOC and the wheels rotate different RPMs and start/stop at different throttles while on the bench, is this normal and should I be concerned?
