Hey guys
VESC question: how can one increase the initial acceleration?
Iām perfectly fine with my top speed, but starting from stand still is somewhat slow.
Gearing 15/36 on 90mm popocas, 63mm motor
Single focbox, 60A motor, 50A battery
10s3p 30q
Thanks,
Dani
increase the motor current limit
or
dual drive
How easily does nickel solder? Gonna edit a pack from Hyperion, moving the BMS and other wires, and replace the series lines with flat nickel to save a few mm
And is it safe to use bullets instead of XT connectors as battery leads? (Is there a way to keep them from separating?)
Iāve soldered nickel quite a lot (Soldering my own packs) and itās a little more stubborn than copper, gold or tin, but not too bad.
You can get away with regular rosin flux (Whatās in the core of your solder might not be enough, probably want to get a bottle/pen) but I prefer to use āRuby Fluidā liquid flux - itās available on Amazon or at my local hardware store. Itās an acid-based flux so itās more aggressive than regular old rosin and thus wets out faster with less heat input (critical for directly soldering cells).
I used 6 or 8mm bullets on my battery leads and they were a very snug fit and located in a position that put no stress on them, so I didnāt bother with securing them. If you do want to secure them, a good method is to cover both assembled bullets in an extra layer of heatshrink. To make it even more secure, you can use hot glue-lined heatshrink, or add your own hot glue before shrinking - it will melt during the shrinking process. Iāve also seen zip ties used (one around each connector, and then one or more between those two pulling them together).
Should I re do remote calibration after I change motor settings and or throttle curves? The board seems to act up if I donāt.
You shouldnāt have to, but it wonāt hurt to do so.
Waitā¦ I might be going stupid but the way I am reading what you are saying is that the amperage on the esc tells how many battery amps it can take but it can take any motor amperageā¦
not any but the number they market with is the battery max amps. A 50A max ESC can handle 50A battery max.
Is there a better way to connect the parallel packs that is flat?
Youāve got to be more specific. Personally I like soldering. You can either use flat copper braid, or round wire, itās flexible and you can redo it if you mess up. With spot welding itās almost a one-and-done thing - the welds really donāt come off easily, by design. For me the ideal pack has P-groups spot welded together, and then the series connections are either soldered to a PCB, or soldered to wires/braids.
Currently itās bridged with round wires but Iād like to flatten it, is there anything thinner than 12 awg? Itās a 3p 30Q pack so not that many amps, Iāve got a variety of wires and some 10x.15 nickel
But letās say that the motor is rated for 100A do you need a 100A ESC?
hey do you guys Know if its possible to convert 90 mm hub motors to offroad hub motors or direct drives?
Thanks.
I have done a bunch of reading and just canāt figure you what the motor values should be.
I am running a unity.
I know my pack (10s4p 30q) is 60A discharge and about -16A for regain.
How do you figure you figure out what the motor values should be? I am running the ugly gold evolve motors if it matters.
Having a little trouble with powering on a new build.
When I plugged in a battery to the fsesc 4.20 dual no lights came on. The motors also have resistance where it feels like 2 phases are touching when plugged into the esc. Not sure they did before I tried to turn on the esc?My soldering on the phase wires looks good and no easily noticeable issues elsewhere.
Gonna try a different batt and go over my connections again. Not sure what else it could be but Iām pretty sure the battery could be the issue since when I tried to charge the led went from red to green repeatedly. Worked fine last time I used it months ago but I thought I left it slightly north of 50%
Probably time to get a multi meter finally.
unplug the phase wires, connect the battery, if it still doesnāt power on then the ESC is your problem.
Iāll give it a shot.
Itās not the 4.2+, so no antispark, using a loop key. It doesnāt have a physical button or something Iām missing does it?
