Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

According to the article, having short battery cables that are taped/shrinkwrapped together improves overall system efficiency by reducing inductance on the battery side.

I don’t know whether the same applies for the leads to the motor but I assume it does, so its probably a good idea to have the motor leads short and taped/shrinkwrapped together to improve overall system efficiency, moreso because of the inductance rather than the resistance, but the lower resistance of shorter cables certainly factors in as well.

Long story short, within the motor, inductance is good, everywhere else its bad. Shortening cables and taping them together reduces inductance outside the motor where it is undesireable.

heatshrink works better and lasts much longer

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another option if the battery cables are already soldered / hard wired making it hard to shrinkwrap, instead of taping every 4-6 inches as recommended in the article, one could wrap the entire length of the battery wires in a coil of electrical tape.

Alternatively, one could wrap them in a coil of cotton string as well.

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Focusing on “how they are secured” is overlooking the “they need to be physically close” part of the problem LoLz.

Also, tape sucks ass. Unless it’s polyimide (Kapton) tape, and even then only in certain circumstances, and definitely not along lengths of cabling.

Although that TESA® 51608 Tape isn’t too bad :slight_smile:

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Masking tape I would only use for masking off and painting. After a couple weeks it turns brittle and comes off anyway. Also maybe for marking the floor for stage performances, it would work for that :rofl:

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dont you talk bad about my tape :star_struck:

on a more serious note, since i started using xmatic monitoring app, every now and then i get a fault_code_drv :confused:

the latest one looks like this:
Voltage: 45.2V
Mosfet Temp 36.3 degrees
Battery Amps 17.5A
Motor Amps 37.8A
Duty Cycle 0.3%
Motor Erpm 15,376

it allways happens at some point during my trip, but the board doesnt act any differend at all,
how long before i can kiss my maytech dual goodbye ?

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Opinion:

The only acceptable tape inside an esk8 is Kapton or HD Thermal.

Electrical Tape & Hotglue are the tools of savages and the uncouth.

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@DerelictRobot knows what’s up. Is there a “superlike” button yet?

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I feel like loom/harness ‘tape’ isn’t really tape, but fair point. It’s great stuff.

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So instead of hotglue, do you reccomend silicone? If not, what other products?

Like if you wanted to secure your canbus cable, what would you use to hold the connection in place

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I use this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electronic-Grade-Silicone-Squeeze/dp/B0063U2RT8/

(you can get it in tubes too, for SSSBBBM™)

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How hard I it to isolate the 2 halves of a dual ESC and make them split PWM instead of CAN connected?

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Depends what ESC it is, if it’s a vesc I don’t see why you couldn’t just disconnected the vescs and use ppm splitters, or just toggle off the can forwarding in the vesc tool :thinking:

The 4.12 dual MakerX and the 4.20 dual plus FSESC, planning to run dual 6384 on 200x50…tryna make a small child destroy forest paths

I am that small child btw

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Hmmmmm I hope they’re gonna be cooled/heatsink’d, they’re gonna cook otherwise

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It’s rated for 50A cont. and comes with a heat sink at least, probably gonna have it mounted with the ESC mounted on the lid of the electronics box with another heat sink poking through

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I believe you can desolder 2 resistors on the dual maker-x to disable the can-bus.