1 complete BLDC electrical revolution at 50% duty cycle:
^this cycle happens 7 times per motor rotation assuming 14 magnets
*(phase changes may not be in the correct order)
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I have a 1/2" landyachtz deck, can I safely route a 3"x3" square that is 3/8" deep?
Also, what should I use as a gasket material if I want it to be 1/4" thick when compressed? I was thinking just 1/4" SBR sheet would be good
Battery sits flush with enclosure, BMS sticks up another 1/2" above that, thinking 1/8" of Velcro to stick it to the enclosure and a 1/8" of craft foam to space it from the deck, when 1/4" of rubber as a gasket and squeeze it all together
There is 4 1/8ths in 1/2". You’ll be routing out over half way through. But, depending on where its being routed @ will determine the strength left in it.
If no phase wires are touching or loose, than it would have to be the ESC. Motors don’t often go bad at the same time and in the same way.
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It’s a 35" battle axe, hole will be about 6" from the front truck, right under my foot. Alternatively I can spin the battery around and move it back another 6" but the wiring inside will suck ass
Some would say sketchy, some would say hard no. Me, id route it and ride. You’re on the smaller side of weight so I dont see YOU cuasing fractures while riding.
If you want assurance, after you route it, apply a coat of epoxy in the area to seal everything back up. Should give strength back to it as well.
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thanks a bunch! now lets hope diyeboards support can help me out there o/
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Sweet, I usually have most of my forward foot weight on the very edge of the deck or ontop of the edge of the baseplate and it’ll be mostly street riding with this.
Thoughts on sitting everything in the enclosure? It’s a Psychotiller ABS enclosure with lots of features that make it hard to bend and it will have 8 bolts holding it up.
Maybe think about ditching the esc from them and getting a vesc or vesc based esc. Youd have better luck than dealing with anything diyeboard
Attach everything to the deck. You’ll eliminate most of the abusive vibrations. Plus you dont have shit sliding around in the enclosure.
Nothing bad about Tiller’s enclosures, but it is abs and its does break under pressure. Id bet it would start at the mounting holes.
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im hoping it will be replaced for free, because the fault was there from the beginning…
the deal is it isnt my board, i built it for a friend who wanted to get into esk8 but not spend any serious money
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Tell him, “buy cheap, but twice” lol. Talk him into spending the money for one of the cheaper priced vesc based esc. He’ll thank you for it.
Probably a stupid question, so I thought I would post it here.
I am going to be putting a unity in my build. Does it need heatsinks, or is it fine inside the enclosure without them?
I will be running it with a 10s4p 30q pack so not crazy amps.
How should I mount everything? I’ve got all the wires going through the enclosure (charge, loopkey, phase, sensor, ignition, stepdown, headlights, underglow, and 5v aux) and not enough room to leave any slack.
I guess VHB black the parts to the deck and craft foam against the enclosure?
What about thin CA glue or something? If not what thin expoxy is cheap in small quantities but still decent for this purpose?
Velcro is the cheapest secure way of attaching. Velcro brand 1" strip. Has yet to let me or any of my components down.
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I was running a 10s5p pack in the same box as my unity and never had over temp issues.
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With no heat sinks?
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Just so you know, at one point I had the diyeboard kit, and the esc and motor combo was the biggest piece of shit I have ever used. Literally light switch brakes. Like running into a curb bad. But the esc worked really well with my DD motors and the diyeboard dual belts were ok with cheap vescs.
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