I am going to be changing all electronics in my gtx. I am going to use a unity, vx2 pro, and re-use the 10s4p I am currently using. My question is on the bms. If I bypass the bms, will the cells only ballance while actualy charging, or will it work like normal? I am thinking I will use a bluetooth bms.
Thats what Im hoping a 30t pack will feel like, compared to 30q at leastā¦ 
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Is it me or is it only Flipsky motors that are 'waterproof? ā¦and would battle-hardening fix that for any other brand?
Kind of confused as to what went wrong. I had may Hoyt remote working perfectly on my split ppm 4-focbox setup, the. I changed the remote briefly, and when I changed back I am having the issue listed below:
Found on other forum
Xelios480 wrote :
ā When setting the proper pulsewidth min/max values through the BLDC tool it leaves the deadzone on the remote at a value of 40%, meaning that when the proper pulsewidth values are set i am left with 10 percent brake being applied when not touching anything on the remote.
the only other way for me to set up the remote without touching the firmware is to allow a throttle value over 100% to give the remote the sweetspot 50% deadzone or resting rateā
Iām having this same issue, but like I said everything was working fine before I briefly changed remotes.
Iāve repaired the remote several times, played with trim and max/min pulsewidth, and deadband
hi all , someone to help me , with haw to program my board ??
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Send me a PM.
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These ok? https://www.mboards.co/products/10s3p-battery-complete-battery-solution?_pos=12&_sid=efeebb1c0&_ss=r
He has not a good reputation, if I recall correctly there were quite a lot of complaints about his customer service and delays.
Try @thisguyhere
http://www.esk8life.com/
Is his shop.
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What fuse should I buy?
Iām gonna use 10S4P battery and dual 6354. Lot of people use 40A fuse, but Iām not sure on what setup. Others have suggested to go higher like 60A or 80A. Going for higher rated fuse would guarantee that it wonāt fail on me, but at the same time the fuse should burn asap if there is failure, so I want to get lowest usable fuse.
I will most likely use automotive fuse in size maxi. Should I get socket for it or can I solder directly on the fuse?
Personally I run no fuse. Id rather my esc risk being able to handle a high current spike momentarily then blow a fuse and lose and control of my board.
I. E. My esc is my fuse.
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I donāt want to use it for ESC protection. Actually I donāt think that it would protect the ESC because fuse is too slow for that. Coming from drone world, there was a guy that designed SmokeStopperā¢, itās a light bulb connected in series between battery and drone for limiting current in case of short to protect your electronic and unexpected prop spin. His conclusion was that if you use fuse, it wonāt be able to save your electronic, some small components could burn before fuse burning.
I want to have fuse in my board in case of short, so my battery wonāt go berserk. Short could happen, damaged connector, internal ESC issue, idk.
If failure like this occurs, it will become uncontrollable with fuse or not, because ESC would stop working.
Fuse can handle spikes with no problem without burning. On 40A fuse you can run 60A for 8 seconds, 100A for 2 seconds or 200A for 0,7 seconds before it burns.
30q vs 40t would a 10s3p of the 40t give me longer range vs the 30q?
Would it give me like an extra 3 feet or 1 mile ish?
30Q is 3Ah
40T is 4Ah
So it should give you 33% increased range.
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āitās time for a walkā
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But the 40T cell is bigger and heavier than the 30Q cell.
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Never skip arm day at the gym.
Currently at 5 sets - 10 repetitions of 1200Wh curls.
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38% heavier and 45% larger for 33% increase in capacity. 75% increased max discharge, probably some other properties as well.
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