I can change the potentiometers on the remote and it changes the ppm, also switching channels shows different ppmās, but still canāt get it to move with the remote
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Check out the wires going from the potentiometer the trigger is hooked to to the board that is reading that in the remote itself make sure that connection is secure as well and nothing shorting with any of those wires. Ideally check things out with oscilloscope if you have access to one or donāt mind shelling out like $50 or $35 and some assembly time can get a āDSO Oscilloscopeā for cheap and can see the DC voltage change from the potentiometer/trigger being moved and can check on the receiver side what the output looks like but otherwise just double check your signal wires and everything on both sides not sure what else you can do.
If you havenāt setup this remote/receiver before perhaps something simpler but Iām not familiar with the details of either of these particular parts so maybe someone else can give you some more specific tips. Made my own remote so familiar with debugging them but hard without equipment and hands on.
Also have moved to using hall sensor instead of potentiometer for my own since the potentiometers always seemed to āwear outā eventually not sure if they were just cheap ones or what but tried a few before changing to hall sensor and it is a tonne better.
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Thanks, hopefully tomorrow I can figure it out, I hope it just a loose solder joint, thanks for the info!
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What if we only glue the clamp onto the truck? We could then unbolt the motor mount from from the truck plate, then take the motor mount off the board with the motor still attached
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Yeah that works. Those bolts can be a pain tho.
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You could just sell you trucks and get boardnamics trucks.
You donāt have many options. I could glue just the mount but make sure it is in the right place. If ever you need to undo it then you will have to use a Dremel.
Why do you want it to come off?
if i ditched the caliber trucks, what would you suggest (that fits the urban treads without adapter), donāt really want a wide asf hanger 
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Oh, the pain is real. We need a precision 184mm version of the Boardnamics hanger
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I literally hate the trampa, mbs matrix trucks cos their so fucking wide. like wtf give me something slick and skinny 
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Any tips to prevent motor wires getting loose over time with the vibrations of the board?
I already used tape in the 4mm plugs and heat shrink around the plugs 
Ya. I mean if you have the money get these
but they are not for everyone. might as well get TKPs for that price depending on your style of riding.
Also regarding my question above
I did more research @Mainflow . PA connectors are really hard to find and they donāt seem to look exactly the same. the closest i found was a VH but they donāt have the same hole spacing (i need 2.0mm i think)
Does anyone know?
It looked similar to me.
Possibly the most important Newbie question goingā¦
How the hell do i get one of these next to my nameā¦??
@mmaner do you have the power here? (i need mine to say āTechnically an Engineerā)
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FYI, I didnāt do that but I applaud it all the same
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Not a problem on the latter!!!
I like it titles must be earned!!!
I had 9 replies censored within 2 hours on builder forumā¦ thats gotta be a record
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Not even close. Look at any conversation between me and Frank
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Im at 27 in the last 3 days 
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Still havenāt got to fix the Belt whine on the right side.
Checked 3 different belts. If a new one is on it stops but comes back after a couple hundred meters.
A buddy brought me some talcum powder and weirdly enough a deodorant stick to test out. He saw someone holding the stick against the belt and the sound stopped (was on a car though)
Any other ideas? It drives me crazy because it louder than the board itself.
Regular bar of soap works best. But itās a bandaid rather than a solution.
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