This is a ood idea.
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Mike, aren’t you out of town ATM? I forgot. Sorry for tagging you in.
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Tommorow I will open up the motor.
Kinda unfortunate since they are brand new, and this is the second brand new item from Flipsky that is faulty…
I have tried to run the motor with the values from the other motor but it does not work either.
@PixelatedPolyeurthan @mmaner @b264
I will keep you guys updated on the situation
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Sorry, man.
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Dibs on not being left handed Morty
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All yours. I’m sex robot Morty.
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I think we can all agree on hating C137 Morty
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On my way back, but the wife was driving so no worries.
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I’ve been hearing this lately. Not good.
Let me know if I can assist.
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Hello all. Ima n00b who really appreciated that this topic was broached in the n00b thread. I was hoping the gurus can put down their pitchforks for a sec and help the autistic n00b out. I am riding on TB4.12’s running firmware 2.18, which has the “ramp step bug” that kills DRV’s. I know I should have gotten an ST Link and updated the firmware, and it reflects very poorly on me that I would rather just ride these ESC’s until they die and just get new ones.
I’m starting to get DRV errors which means the end is coming (PM me for Metro log). Intuitively, the DRV chips on both ESC’s will start to give trouble, and will eventually fail, at different times. However, when I had issues on my ride, neither ESC would respond. I would come to a complete stop at the intersection, but my board didn’t do shit when I moved the trigger. I had a few moments too where I had zero brakes, as opposed to brakes on only one rear wheel.
It is hard for me to believe that both ESC’s experienced DRV errors at the same moment. I suspect that my receiver is plugged into the ESC which experienced the error, and then failed to communicate the radio signal over CAN to the slave ESC.
I know this is not the failure mode being discussed in this thread (rx failure or RF interference). However, I can’t help but wonder if I would have had at least one drive train working if I had used a PPM splitter or a second radio plugged into the slave ESC.
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Hi Sesat. Your post will get the right attention here. Thanks!
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I’ll PM you my metr log, my 10s pack never dipped below 35V, and that was only when gunning it towards the end. More importantly, those “DRV8032 error” messages never coinsided with battery voltage dips or battery current spikes.
@B264 what will bring you more joy, the knowledge that @DerelictRobot can’t help me, or the knowledge that you were able to help me? We’re all Spectrum Riders here
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That’s not the process, you can update the firmware with a USB cable. Go here…
As far as DRV errors, without a log it’s hard to say if the are phantom errors it not. I’d proceed with firmware update and see what happens.
TB VESCs will work with 12s but they are susceptible to failures on high amp loads.
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Lost, I can’t seem to get any ppm
Controller is bound to receiver.
You sure the signal wire is hooked to the correct channel for throttle output? If the recevier has different channels try the other ones, as long as black is hooked to gnd and red is hooked up to 5V you can typically just move the signal line around (usually red 5V in middle and look for S for signal or GND marking for ground).
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@sesat since you’re using the metr module you can actually update the firmware from the app too by selecting the blue gear icon in the settings next to your modules name (will get updates for the bluetooth module firmware and VESC updates). The only time the ST-Link is needed is if the VESC can’t be connected to with a metr module or over USB but those are both easier options, basically last ditch effort if something happened to the bootloader and firmware and/or you don’t have other hardware to connect to it. The ST-link is a good reliable way to erase and flash the st-microelectronics chips if you are doing development but otherwise usually not necessary.
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Yes, all lines are lined up, S+ -, I have tinkered with all the buttons on the remote as well as changing channels, I am lost