Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Im apologize in advance I don’t quite understand, I have a D140 bms for 12s how do I know if I need a b0 balance wire going to b- or otherwise?

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Then you do need one. Just put it there and don’t worry.

Make sure your balance wires are correct though, and not in the wrong order.

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When programming the vesc using bluetooth, does the master side just switch to wherever the bluetooth module is? I have both uart port used, one by the remote receiver and the other by the bluetooth module, but it seems that now I have my bluetooth module as “master” side, so is that some sort of a problem?

@onebluesummer lemme know how these treat your screws if you wouldn’t mind!

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@wafflejock is this correct? can i use this to calculate the time if useage on my light?#https://hitlights.com/blogs/news/how-long-will-your-batteries-power-my-lights

Yah really it’s just take battery capacity in watt hours and divide by number of watts used to get number of hours you can use them for given the capacity. Another way to say it is if you have a 10 watt-hour battery it can supply 10Watts for one hour (or 5W for 2 hrs).

The only wrench thrown in is some loss for any sort of voltage conversion so if you have to step up or step down the voltage then good to have like 10% overhead for that so say you calculate you need 20Wh for the time and light power you want then 20Wh x 1.10 = 22Wh size battery or bigger accounting for losses.

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Anyone on here know where I can get an ESC case for my flipsky dual 6.6 I have the old big one. Looking for something functional, doesnt have to be super pretty, preferable not super pricey either

Is 12s that more efficient? Or is it because of the lipos.

I seem to get noticeably more range out of my 12s1p? (2x 6s 12.000 in Series) compared to my 10s4p 30Q (12.000) pack.

Not to mention the voltage sag while accelerating. 0.5-1.5v with lipo and 1.0-3.2v with 30q

Not the first time I am hearing this. I have noticed something similar when I switched to LIPO too. this whole thread is very interesting.

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im 6’4" and know with snowboarding i just need longer boards. Does the same carry over for eskates? My biggest delima I had while picking out decks was length like the evo only goes to 40, sub sonic only 40, is that actually long enough for me? I just heard Ember makes a 44, is that what i need?

Same height here and size 13 feet. I think the smallest I can go personally would be 34. Most of my boards are 38-40, but the RedEmber 44 you mentioned is on my want list.

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woow…I just bombed a hill at 25ish km/h and my lipos sagged at a Maximum of 1.1v (remember, the 30q sagged up to 3.2v on a straight)

it took 0.4v sag to maintain 30km/h with lipos. Insane.

It not so much the length of the board as the footprint of the board you have to watch out for.

I have a hummie deck and it’s 42inch long I think but compare that to a Haya deck which is 36 inch long I have about the same wide footprint on it as the hummie deck if not wider.

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I have a Focbox Unity with Metr Pro Unity edition and 2 used Street Wing motors. After a lot of tries, I keep having this problem where the motors aren’t equal. Usually, it’s the motor that’s lagging in the video that has problems. I need to go max throttle for it to work. Sometimes it’s the other one that doesn’t work with a tiny amount of throttle, but after increasing it, the motor starts working and better than the other one. Don’t have any stupid sensor values, tried both sensorless and sensored, but keep having the same issue. Noticed that on the Unity UI app both motors were receiving the same A but one of them didn’t have any V value. Any suggestions?

Post a screenshot of your motor detection results please

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Thanks! Not sure if I need to show something else, but here are the General and Hall Sensors results:

Yeah, those values look pretty normal to me. I’d check all the cable connections, it’s concerning that it reads 0 V.

Hey all. I have a question re 3D printing as I have zero experience. Looking to print the below pulley cover and am wondering what amount of infill will make it strong enough. Is 25% enough? TIA

Would a 3d printed case work you?

I would do 100% infill and increase the perimeter to make it stronger

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